I've got a leaky power steering rack that needs to be replaced. The factory manual implies that the R&R isn't that hard. The hardest part appears to be access to the nuts on the pressure and return lines of the rack. I can get a wrench on from above (from below is impossible), but no leverage to bust the nuts loose. And, I just know that getting the nuts started on the rack on installation will be next to impossible.

Has anyone done this? Any tips? It looks to me like the best way to accomplish this is to remove the intake manifold, either the upper or both upper and lower. Had the rack been leaking prior to the engine replacement, I would have done it at that time. But, as luck would have it, it decided to leak after I got the engine in. That Murphy guy has been a real PITA.

 

It has been a bit.....but once the cover is taken off (3~4 10mm headed bolts) the lines are not that bad to get to from under the car....or am I thinking of the 3rd gens that have the cover around the lines, sucks to get old.

Either way, a crows foot line wrench does wonders . A 14mm and 16mm is what I think you need on this gen.

 

Thanks for the suggestions, poorman. I already have flare nut and crow-foot flare nut wrenches.

I spent a good bit of time looking at the installation from under the car and from the top over the Thanksgiving weekend. I didn't see any cover held on by 10 mm hex head bolts. It was all big stuff holding on subframes and large brackets, but I'll take another look. The view in the factory manual suggest access is from the top.

I've got time to come up with a plan of attack. The leakage is annoying, but not bad enough that I have to add fluid every week. I just can't stand oil spots on my driveway and I know the leak isn't going to heal itself.

 

I hope you have better luck than I with those lines. I had a very small PS leak that was cured with Lucas stop leak. But when I had the engine out I thought it would be a good idea to crack those two lines and retighten them just in case the rack needed to be replaced in the future, knowing that getting them off with the engine installed is a PITA. Easier said than done. The car is an original Colorado car with no rust anywhere. But those two lines wouldn't budge with flare wrenches. I ended up using a small sledge and a cold chisel to crack them loose. Put some anti-seize on the threads for good measure.