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Power Window Motor

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Old May 28, 2008 | 10:58 PM
  #1  
DangrousDave20
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Default Power Window Motor

I recently had my passenger side window motor go out, so i replaced it. After replacing it, Irealized that the window still struggles like the last 3 inches as it's going back up. So i felt around inside the door panel before replacing it and found that the two throttle cables are being pinched against the glass as the window rises, and right before it completely comes down. There's like a rubber foam on the cables exactly in the spot it's being pinched.. So is it ok that this happens?? Or is this what initially caused my window motor to fail?? Any past experience help with this would be helpful. It's a 97, Honda Accord EX, 2Dr, Vtec.
 
Old May 29, 2008 | 01:33 PM
  #2  
DangrousDave20
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Default RE: Power Window Motor

Any takers???
 
Old May 29, 2008 | 02:00 PM
  #3  
imthehink's Avatar
Joined: Apr 2008
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Default RE: Power Window Motor

I think that would have something to do with it. You say it struggles the last three inches, which is probably making the motor work twice as hard. Just my opinion.
 
Old May 29, 2008 | 02:08 PM
  #4  
Hobbin's Avatar
Joined: May 2008
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Default RE: Power Window Motor

Hm you may have to just jimmy-rig the thing.

I would say put oil or some kind of lube in there, but I think that'd just make a mess and wouldn't work for that long.


I had the same problem with my car, and kind of still do. My passenger window seems weak...I don't think the motor is bad, but there's a lot of friction against the window.

I'll search for some replacement parts, see what I can come up with.
 
Old May 29, 2008 | 02:35 PM
  #5  
Hobbin's Avatar
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Default RE: Power Window Motor

Okay so I searched for about ten minutes and came up with a few things.

1. Lubrication may help and there is lube designed for just that. Your lube (or mine too) may be dried up
2. The tracks are pinching the window, or there is rust or obstruction in the tracks.
3. The motor brushes are bad
4. The motor itself is bad
 
Old May 30, 2008 | 08:38 AM
  #6  
TexasHonda's Avatar
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From: Katy, TX
Default RE: Power Window Motor

When you say you replaced the motor, I assume you mean the entire regulator assemblyw/ motor? The regulatorpackage is pre-rigged and there are no adjustments. Binding of window in the run channels due to dirt, damaged channel is a frequent cause of slow window movement. Since problem was not fixed by replacing regulator, the window run channel seems most likely. Remove andclean, or replace.

good luck
 
Old May 30, 2008 | 10:10 PM
  #7  
DangrousDave20
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Default RE: Power Window Motor

Thanks guys. I'm thinking if i get bored one day i may lube up the area where the two cables rub. Or i may just stop rolling down my window. Whichever. Thanks.
 
Old Feb 6, 2013 | 11:09 AM
  #8  
jkowtko's Avatar
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From: Redwood City, CA 94065
Default

Question -- if the window struggles to raise up and you've already cleaned the window guides, would the problem ever be related to poor electrical current from the wiring harness ... or it is always a bad/worn motor or regulator?

The driver's window on my car struggles a bit to raise up. It's moving better now after I cleaned and lubricated the tracks, but still shows signs of struggle. It works a little better when the engine is running (more juice to the motor) than when it's off. The car battery is only one year old so would not expect a battery charge issue. The window switch assembly on the driver's door was replaced a few years ago so that is essentially new.

Are there any other circuits or plugs in the wiring harness that would cause a weak power connection to the window motor?

Or is this simply what happens when the motor gets old and/or the regulator moving parts wear?
 
Old Feb 6, 2013 | 11:36 AM
  #9  
JimBlake's Avatar
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Posts: 18,398
From: Wisconsin
Default

You should be able to verify (or rule out) voltage problems by measuring voltage at the motor WHILE it's running. Then measure battery voltage while the window motor is running.

Bad connection in the wiring will give you low voltage at the motor but OK voltage at the battery.

Bad battery will give you low voltage both places.

On a 16-year-old car I certainly wouldn't rule out bad wiring connections without making a simple measurement. Worn moving parts are certainly possible too.
 
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