Does anyone know how hard it is to do a R134a conversion? If it not difficult, I may as well buy the $39 retrofit kit instead of paying $200 for an R12 refill.
http://replacement.autopartswarehous...t&dp=false

 

Thats a major pain in the butt to change out all the 'O' rings.
The original freon leaked out somewhere, and R-12 is a larger molecule than 134a, so the 134a will leak out quickly as well.
There is another product on the market called "freeze 12"; compatible with R-12 systems and listed in the "SNAP" replacement freons on the EPA website.
Check Ebay for kits, around $35
I would check the system over for oily places where the freon may have leaked out, including the pressure switch. Put the system under 15"of vacum for 15 minutes, then see if it holds vacum for 10 minutes
If you can hold good vacum throw in some flourescent dye, and oil then a can or so of Freeze 12. keep the head pressure under 250 psi.
Then you can go back a week later and use a black light to search for leaks.

 

I think I have a small leak on my condensor so I'd like to put in the dye and some freeze 12 from ebay...I think thats the best thing for now. I know where all my A/C components are but where and how do you add the refrigerent as a DIY procedure at home?

 

You need an AC manifold gauge set, and a vacuum pump to recharge a system. A used R12 set will work fine w/ adapters for R134a when needed. I would suggest investing in an auto ac manual. Haynes makes a good one and Mastercool another. See below for source.

I agree w/ Hondadude's suggestion to change all orings, even those in the evaporator housing. Evaporator orings have been the worst leakers in Hondas for me. Look carefully at your compressor and surrounding parts for an oil/dirt ring around the clutch. This indicates oil is being thrown out by the rotating clutch and a source of refrigerant loss also. A new rotating shaft seal can be installed to repair.

I would suggest blowing out the condensor, removing and draining the evaporator, and draining the compressor to dump your R12 lubricant. Add 7-8 oz of replacement lubricant, dependent on your choice of refrigerant, (see Arizona Mobil Air or ackits.com) for oil, refrigerants, tools, etc. Ybay is another good source. A new reciever-drier is alsoa good investment.

Once system is repaired, vacuum to max vacuum (usually 29-30" hg vacuum) for at least 15 minutes, but l-hr is better. This step removes all moisture from the system. Charge into the vacuum by weight of refrigerant. Cans help to measure the refrigerant. You can use a reasonably accurate postal scale to get near the precise charge. I would suggest either R12 or R134a. The blended refrigerants are mostly R134a anyway, w/ additives to help carry lubricant. I don't see how they could cool as well as R12 and you run the risk of losing lubrication if the blend additions leak away preferentially. You can find R12 on ybay (http://search.ebay.com/search/search...&category0=) at reasonable prices and keep your system completely stock. R12 also allows charging by using the sight glass and adding charge until bubbles just dissappear.

good luck