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Rear Brakes replacement

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Old Jul 7, 2016 | 09:52 AM
  #1  
rockhoundrob's Avatar
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Default Rear Brakes replacement

1998 Honda Accord (drum brakes)

I checked my daughter's rear brakes and the brake shoes need to be replaced by Christmas. They have less than 1/8" left ( maybe 1/2 way between 1/8 and 1/16)

I looked at the Chilton and Haynes manual and am not sure of all the steps.
I have replaced rear drum brakes on a 77 Ford pick up (I messed up thinking all the pads were the same, but was able to correct this) and also a 1985 Buick. So it's been more than 20 years since I did this kind of thing.

1) Seems there are a lot more parts on the Honda rear brakes and why do I have to remove the Wheel hub? The manual say it will be easier to replace the brakes if I remove the hub. Is this true? Can it be done without removing the hub?

2) One manual says to replace the springs every time. Is this critical?
The same manual says to grease the ends of the brake cylinder pins that comes in contact with the metal part of the shoe, the other doesn't say anything. Do I need to grease it?

3) To avoid taking the brakes completely apart and reassembling them, is it possible to just carefully replace one shoe, then the other (without disassembling the whole thing)?

4) I have worked on cars for the most part, but usually it's starters, radiator, alts, front brake DISC, Ignition cylinders, etc... So I am wondering
how easy it is to screw up. I am careful about following instructions, so the thing I am more concerned about is looking at the pictures and misunderstanding something...

any other advice?
 
Old Jul 7, 2016 | 11:22 AM
  #2  
dgp1961's Avatar
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If it was my kids car and specially concerning brakes if I wasn't 100% sure of myself I'd have it done somewhere maybe a dealer. Yeah maybe 50-60% more but how much is the piece of mind worth your getting with them doing it? Just saying.....
 
Old Jul 7, 2016 | 12:51 PM
  #3  
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I replaced my 97 accord rear drum shoes last week. I am not experienced, I try to add comments.
1. the most difficult part is to remove the upper spring. If you have strong arm, you may not need honda spring tool. You may need 2nd person to help to use a big screw driver to hold the shoe when you remove/install the upper spring. You do not want to shoe move to one side too much to damage the wheel cylinder.
Remove the wheel hub will give you more space when work on the upper spring, you do not have to remove the wheel hub.
I purchased the honda spring tool to make remove/install upper spring easier.

2. I purchase the shoe set from dealer. I did not buy the springs. When I replaced the shoe last week, found out one lower spring was rusted badly. So I buy the lower spring from dealer again and plan to replace it this weekend. Some pieces in the drum brake may be rusted, so check before purchase parts.

3. For my brake, on either side, one piece shoe is OK, the other piece needs to be replaced. I was thinking just replace half of the shoes, but you can not purchase half the shoe, you can only the complete shoe. I end up replace the whole thing.

4. I was advised the replace the the wheel cylinders at the same time, after replaced the shoes, the wheel cylinder will go bad sooner or later. I purchased 2 wheeler cylinders. I see my wheel cylinders still good, not leaking(original). I did not replace them. The back wheel cylinder screws and brake line connections are rusted, I am afraid of damage them, so I did not replace them.
 
Old Jul 9, 2016 | 06:17 AM
  #4  
poorman212's Avatar
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One day I'll have to make a write up on how I do this. I was taught a "trick" by a friend who owned a shop with his brother years ago.

Remove the shoes with the upper part all connected!

You can remove the lower spring, the pins that hold the shoes to the backing plate. Compress the wheel cyl slightly, you can push the top of both shoes or use pliers - don't damage the rubber boots. Optional, you can open the bleeder to keep the cyl from wanting to "open" back up.

Slip the bottom of the shoes from behind that lower "plate". Then push the bottom of both shoes together, this spreads the top apart enough to clear the wheel cyl.

You can then get behind the one to the e-brake cable and remove it.

Bam, shoes are off and can be laid on the ground and transfer the neded springs from the old shoes to the new ones......or give you and idea of how the new springs and hardware go on the new shoes.

In the pic you can see how I had the new shoes set up with springs attached while sitting on the ground. I picked up the "assembly" as seen and installed them using the reverse of removal.

Done
 
Attached Thumbnails Rear Brakes replacement-dscn8460.jpg  
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