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Rear Door (driverside) Lock Loud noise

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  #1  
Old 09-19-2007, 08:45 PM
brave_mhy's Avatar
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Default Rear Door (driverside) Lock Loud noise

My power door lock still works, however, the driversiderear door lock makes unbelivable, LOUD!!! noise when it opens and closes by my power keypad. The noise comes from exactly the lock latch position, seems to me some gears are worn out (if there is any). I am planning to remove the door panel and look inside and see what is making that noise. Anyone has any comments about this problem, is it common and easily fixed?

Thanks in advance for any input!
 
  #2  
Old 09-19-2007, 09:02 PM
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Default RE: Rear Door (driverside) Lock Loud noise

what kind of noise is it?
grinding noise?
Does the lock still work?
 
  #3  
Old 09-20-2007, 08:36 PM
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Default RE: Rear Door (driverside) Lock Loud noise

Thanks! nafango2, the lock still works, and the sound comeswhen the lock **** pops up and pops back down again (about one second or so each time). It seems to me the sound is like operating the electric drill as if I were drilling a hole on a super hard metal peice! I can hardly believe anything behind the door panel can generate such a loud sound, everyone in the parking lot was looking at me. I guess maybe the gear is not properly engaged with the rack (if there is any, no sure at all), but never worked on the door structure before especially the lock machanism.

Appreciate any comments!
 
  #4  
Old 09-20-2007, 08:55 PM
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Default RE: Rear Door (driverside) Lock Loud noise

I had the same problem.
sounds like the actuator is on the verge of breaking down. If you want, you can replace it or try to fix it. Fixing it isnt that hard if you have any mechanical skills.
follow the instructions i posted on this thread: https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/m_7..._/tm.htm#77914

There might be a different problem inside the actuator, like a partially stripped gear but it sounds like its having the same problem only not as severe. when you open up the actuator and plug it in to see the problem, bear in mind it might not be the same as the one i detailed in that thread, but the process for removing the actuator and troubleshooting is the same.
 
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