I all I hope to get my 2010 Accord LX 2.4l K5AT PZEV, jacked up this weekend, to investigate further. Any suggestions on what to look for would be so appreciated!

I live in the NYC area, a few months ago I was driving to work on I-95,and there was a random chunk of rear laying in the center lane.

I couldn't swerve, or slam on the brakes, without causing an accident. So I had no choice but to it it. Well after doing so the brake light came on and all my brake fluid was gone. The rebar severed the brake hardline, where it runs fairly unprotected before the fuel tank. In the middle of the car. It was the rear driver side line.

I was going to run a new one myself, but cracked two ribs, and couldn't lay under the car long enough at a time. I had just changed the rear calipers, pads and rotors 50 miles before the hardline severed.

I gave in, and took it to the mechanic, who ran a new line and inspected everything I put on previously. Got the car back and was great for two weeks.

Now at speeds from 15 to 30mph, and only after the brakes and tires are warm, I have a terrible judder in one of the rear wheels. It almost sounds sometimes when anti-social brakes fire fast that fast thumping, but it's mixed with a metallic noise and a creak.

There's no steering wheel vibration, and it does it driving straight, or turning. If I apply the brakes, it stops a bit, and starts again when I let up.

They only difference between the car, prior to the hard line change and after, is the mechanic really tightened the economy brake. Otherwise it stops fine etc.

So this is where my confused self asks for you benevolence in making any suggestions or advising me on things to look for. I generally do most of my auto work. In the process of rebuilding a Ford Triton 5.4l now. This one just has me stumped. I haven't heard anything like it. Could the VSA need to be bled of air possibly?

​​​​​I won't speculate any further, but would be very grateful, for your thoughts.

Thanks in advance!

JP267
​
​​
​​

 

Take a look at you rear pads to see if the pads slide in the caliper bracket easily. Also look at the groves in the rear caliper piston and make sure the tab on the brake pad lines up with it.

 

Sounds great thanks for the suggestion! I was doing some troubleshooting today and I wonder if an over tight e brake could be the issue. The service manual says the e brake should be fully deployed at seven or eight clicks. Mine takes 16 clicks to fully deploy. That seems pretty far out of adjustment.

 

Well figured it out. I went out to my car and had a flat. The sidewall separated on the rear right tire. It wasn't the brakes warming up causing the noise. It was the tires warming up and the belts separating.

Oh well easy fix I guess. Better than ball joints or something.