I wanted to confirm the rear-wheel bearing failure that I posted about already so I pulled both wheels/tires and calipers off this evening (spinning the right/passenger side was "noisy" while the left was quiet). Anyway, while looking at that, I saw what's shown in the attachment. I'm 99% certain this was not this way just a week ago or so when I first was under the car trying to find the source of the 'growl' noise.

Where the arrow is pointing seems to be the main failure point. That bushing seems to be so worn out, it gives no stiffness to keep that short arm in place.

What are these parts ? It's attached to the large torsion or stabilizer bar that runs from the left side to the right (just along the trunk radius). Do I need to replace the 'bars' or 'arms' or just the rubber bushing(s) ? I can't find a good parts diagram yet either. I did find one from a dealer in the UK (Honda ACCORD 1999 TYPE R REAR STABILIZER/ REAR LOWER ARM - Original Honda Parts | Lings Honda) that's close, but not enough that I would trust it.... It's the "LINK COMP., R. RR. STABILIZER" or actually the bushings that it ties into.

Oh yeah, I almost forgot, how difficult are these to replace ?

 

That is the rear stabilizer bar end-link. Here is a video on replacing the front ones. The rear might have more room. The hard part will be removing the bolt, if they are rusted.

 

Okay, so the bushings are integral to the link ? That's good.... I know that video is showing a different car and the front end vs the rear, but the concept is pretty much the same that it makes sense. There's also more room in the rear. The worst part, as you thought, is rust ! And yes, there is !

 

The UK part # is valid for the US too.... 52320-S84-A01 (right) is confirmed here: ACCORD SEDAN : LINK, R. RR. STABILIZER | 1999 Honda OEM Parts @ Honda Parts Cheap

 

A good video from ETCG as usual.

However, I suggest cleaning threads w/ wire brush and hitting w/ PB blaster before attempting to remove. I've had good results w/ this procedure on rusty bolts. I don't have acetylene, but use propane to heat to 700-800 F and this will help.

good luck

 

Yeah, I'll have to go the 'elbow grease' route. I have no air tools and even if I got a small, inexpensive air ratchet, my compressor is very small. I do have a large-capacity compressor at work though.... I can't justify spending a bunch on a tool like that that I'd rarely use again. I'd go the Harbor Freight route and if it worked for a few jobs, I'd consider it worth it.

 

While my son-in-law was changing the wheel-bearing assemblies, he fought with the broken link and finally got it off (he has air-tools). I just have to buy a replacement and bolt it in. He was going to break loose the left-side one as well but you almost have to destroy them in the process and that would have left the stabilizer bar loose. There is no wrench flats on these to hold while you use another wrench on the outside. There is an allen-wrench hole but it's not accessible (correct me if I'm wrong) without tearing the bushing material off.

 

The allen wrench socket recess is in the stud end (same side as nut). You have to use a open/closed wrench w/ the allen tool to turn.

good luck

 

Yeah, I realized that after watching that video again. That rules out using air tools too, huh?

 

When mine went bad I used a propane torch to melt off the bushing then grabbed the one side of the link with vice grips. The other side you can use a socket on and get them off. You get all you need ,bolts and what not when you but the new ones. I thing about 13-19 a side at O'Rileys.