replace rear drums
#1
replace rear drums
2005 accord sedan 2.4 lx
Feeling a car/body vibration when braking - pulled parking brake to confirm coming from rear.
Shop says drums too low to cut. looking to charge $85 per drum replacement + install.
I might be selling the car to my little brother next month. Rockauto shows plenty less than $85/drum.
Anyone have any recommendations on drums I can buy for less than $85 that will be good for him?
Thanks
Feeling a car/body vibration when braking - pulled parking brake to confirm coming from rear.
Shop says drums too low to cut. looking to charge $85 per drum replacement + install.
I might be selling the car to my little brother next month. Rockauto shows plenty less than $85/drum.
Anyone have any recommendations on drums I can buy for less than $85 that will be good for him?
Thanks
Last edited by rio; 06-18-2012 at 06:08 PM.
#2
Any of those listed at Rock Auto - or any bought at an auto parts store - would be fine. Rear drums have a much easier life than front disks; the car must have a ton of miles on it for them to be worn past the limit.
Replacing them yourself would be a very easy DIY, even if you replaced the shoes too.
Replacing them yourself would be a very easy DIY, even if you replaced the shoes too.
#3
eh - @ 161k. I replaced the shoes at 60k after having some vibration issues back then and having cracked shoes. So - the current shoes have 100k on them and still look great. but the drum is low.
anything on there ya think? I mean these are $18/ea. PRONTO Part # BD35067
I was thinking of the Bendix -- remember using them back in my Ford days. BENDIX Part # PDR0758
We're talking about literally taking the tire off, pulling the drum - putting new one on - and replacing wheel, yes? Do I need to adjust them? Actually never played with drum brakes - always scurred by the springs.
anything on there ya think? I mean these are $18/ea. PRONTO Part # BD35067
I was thinking of the Bendix -- remember using them back in my Ford days. BENDIX Part # PDR0758
We're talking about literally taking the tire off, pulling the drum - putting new one on - and replacing wheel, yes? Do I need to adjust them? Actually never played with drum brakes - always scurred by the springs.
#4
Huh. I thought rear shoes would last longer. I replaced mine @ 225K. I guess usage can make a difference.
Pretty much how you described. If there's a ridge on the drum(s) you may have to tilt them back and forth but they'll probably just slip right off. They're self adjusting.
Drums are just cast iron. I don't think there's any reason to pick a more expensive brand.
Replacing shoes is easy if you do one side at a time so you have the other side for reference. Take the shoes off and apart, clean up the backing plate and hardware, grease the contact points, and put it back together so it looks like the other side.
Pretty much how you described. If there's a ridge on the drum(s) you may have to tilt them back and forth but they'll probably just slip right off. They're self adjusting.
Drums are just cast iron. I don't think there's any reason to pick a more expensive brand.
Replacing shoes is easy if you do one side at a time so you have the other side for reference. Take the shoes off and apart, clean up the backing plate and hardware, grease the contact points, and put it back together so it looks like the other side.
#6
Squeaking has more to do with the brake-shoe material, not so much the iron drum.
Is it possible your handbrake mechanism was sticking a bit causing the brakes to drag? That might explain the fast wear??
There should be a couple threaded holes in the drum, maybe M6. Grease em up & put in a couple bolts. Use them to push the drum away from the hub. Once it's broke loose (from rust) then be careful how you use those jacking-screws. If the shoes are stuck on a ridge inside the drum, you can damage more stuff by forcing it off. Work on retracting the shoes in that case.
Is it possible your handbrake mechanism was sticking a bit causing the brakes to drag? That might explain the fast wear??
There should be a couple threaded holes in the drum, maybe M6. Grease em up & put in a couple bolts. Use them to push the drum away from the hub. Once it's broke loose (from rust) then be careful how you use those jacking-screws. If the shoes are stuck on a ridge inside the drum, you can damage more stuff by forcing it off. Work on retracting the shoes in that case.
#7
Not sure why those shoes wore so fast. I did get honda to replace them free of charge back at 60k.
The new ones look fine still.
I just had the shop inspect rear shoes. I inspected shoes myself and drums were off. Hoping all rust has been broken and the drums will come right off?
The new ones look fine still.
I just had the shop inspect rear shoes. I inspected shoes myself and drums were off. Hoping all rust has been broken and the drums will come right off?
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