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Replace the whole axel or just the CV boot?

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  #1  
Old 04-07-2007, 09:05 PM
chibiko's Avatar
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Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 21
Default Replace the whole axel or just the CV boot?

Just findthe inner CV boot brokenof my accord (97 DX, 180,000 mile). Didn't see much grease outside the boot, but a big crack when I turned the wheel to check the boots. Don't know if it is ok just replace the broken boot itself or I need to replace the whole axel. Both drive side and passenger side outer CV boots have been changed before without changing the shafts.
 
  #2  
Old 04-07-2007, 09:16 PM
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Default RE: Replace the whole axel or just the CV boot?

just replace the boot,, non honda boot kit is around 10-15 dollars comes with ,, ( boot, bands , grease )
 
  #3  
Old 04-07-2007, 09:28 PM
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Default RE: Replace the whole axel or just the CV boot?

Thanks. I see a big work for meeating my another whole weekend of mine.
 
  #4  
Old 04-07-2007, 09:34 PM
Chiovnidca's Avatar
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Default RE: Replace the whole axel or just the CV boot?

ORIGINAL: chibiko

Thanks. I see a big work for meeating my another whole weekend of mine.
They're not that bad. 20 minutes if you do em all the time.
 
  #5  
Old 04-07-2007, 09:36 PM
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Default RE: Replace the whole axel or just the CV boot?

I just did mine last weekend. Just spend the extra $30-$40 and do the total swap...its alot easier! In and out, thats it!
 
  #6  
Old 04-07-2007, 10:03 PM
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Default RE: Replace the whole axel or just the CV boot?

Any special tools for changing boots? A list of tools is appreciated. Thanks.
 
  #7  
Old 04-07-2007, 10:43 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Katy, TX
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Default RE: Replace the whole axel or just the CV boot?

Only special tools I've needed are 1) high quality 1/2" drive x 18" or 24" length breaker bar to break the nut loose on the axle shaft end, Use a jack stand w/ shimmed foundation to precisely support the 32mm (?) socket at correct elevation as you break the nut loose. You likely will need a cheater pipe to provide extra leverage on your breaker bar. Breakout torque may be in the range of 500-700 ft-lbs, so a leverage of 4-ft or more is desirable. An good air impact may work, but this isnot a sure thing.

2) Someway to squeeze the special boot clamp strap to tension the strap. A special tool is shown on Honda shop manual diagrams, however I have had success w/ a simple set of "nail nippers" (not sure about name). They are used to shear nails off flush w/ surface. They are just right to squeeze the loop in the boot clamp and create necessary clamping.

Occasionally, the axle shaft will be difficult to drive from the splined wheel hub. If you have problems, you may need to get a axle push rig to push the axle from the splined hub. I've never had to do this but have used a brass hammer and lot's of PB Blaster to lubricate. Some shafts come out quite easily. Hopefully yours will.

See Axle Replacement DIY from DesertHonda. This covers the job in detail.

good luck
 
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