Drained transmission fluid and replaced with Honda DW-1. Honda told me they replaced Z1 with DW-1
I drove it about 40 miles and it shifts much better. I was surprised, I did not expect to see that kind of improvement with fresh oil.

It did throw a p-1739 code, but the car behaved the same despite the code. It downshifts much better, especially when coming to a stop, but still upshifts at about 3800 to 4200 rpm. I do not drive aggressively so the high shift points are abnormal ....I think.

I'm replacing the remaining 3 quarts of DW-1 this morning.

The primary cooling fan motor is out also, I'm hitting the salvage yards for that. The parts stores here want 100.00 for a fan motor, which i think is ridicules, it's cooling fine with 1 fan running, but I'm still on the lookout for another fan motor

 

Ok I have fresh fluid. It shfits tigher and downshifts normally.......until it throws a 1739 code. Then goes into limp mode

I found this to test it
1999 Accord: cyl..3rd clutch pressure switch circuit..diagnostic..cars - JustAnswer

I checked the 3rd clutch pressure switch. I'm getting 5 volts at the sensor (unplugged), do I need to see 12 volts?

I also checked the ohms on the switch itself and I'm seeing o ohms. Part 14 is what i'm gathering is the 3rd clutch pressure switch
<a href="http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v6...01_atm0710.png" target="_blank"><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...01_atm0710.png" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

 

That pic looks like the switch.

Also check the settings on your volt meter - you should have battery voltage (12v) on the wire?

 

Meter is set correctly, dcv-20
I'm getting 5.0 volts at the plug regardless if it's in limp mode or not, I cleared the code, let it sit all night and I'm still seeing 5.0 volts.
I have 12.8 volts at the battery.

It shifts great in the morning when temps are cool , then after about 30 or 40 miles I can feel it hesitating. It's not the engine ( tach is not jumping around) it's the transmission, then it kicks the code on.
After the code is on, it feels very sluggish, doesn't down shift unless I almost floor it. At that point I park it, let it sit untill the evening and it will start shifting perfect again.

Fresh transmission fluid with no leaks, trans fluid level is perfect

 

I'm concerned that you do not have battery voltage to the switch.

The pic I posted is like step 5 of some number but it does say that if you do not have battery voltage at that wire to check the "wire" from the PCM to the switch....one of the earlier steps was to check the pin at the PCM.

 

I checked the pcm connector according to the diagram you posted. I'm not seeing any voltage, so thats good
I checked the switch again and I'm definatly getting 5-volts not 12.
And I'm seeing 0-mohm's on the switch itself, so it appears the switch is ok, but my voltage is weak.

I just checked the voltage of the blue/white wire leaving the pcm ( pin 24 on the pcm "b" connector) I'm assuming it's the same blue/white going to the switch....I'm seeing 5- volts
So it's not the wire going from the pcm to the switch, it appears to be the pcm. What do you think?