Thank you so much for your time and help. I fixed the problem and it was fuse number 21 under the dash. Apparently i accidentally skipped over this one cause didn't see it was blown till now. Feel like a dumb a**. So now back to original problem with my windows.

 

That leaves Fuse #7 in the under hood fuse box that is unaccounted for. I think you have the same shop manual I am using. I can not figure out the power source for that fuse, but let me know if you locate that information.

My best suggestion is to unplug the source for each component that is not working (I'd start with the easiest ones to access), then test the input to the non working component. Either power or ground is missing on a minimum of one wire. Once those are identified, then we may be able to work backwards.

As I was typing this, RedBull-1 added a post. I also asked about #7 and #21 fuse under the dash in an earlier post, and you never posted your results.

 

Then do the simple test in my other link with only one wire to check the door multiplex control unit.

 

Post # 2 mentions those fuses; under-hood and under-dash.

 

Redbull-1 and PAhonda: i apologize i thought i had checked all the fuses but obviously missed this one. Sorry for the confusion on my part. Guys were spot on with the information and are true Honda guru's.

Redbull-1: I'm gonna follow instructions in the link you provided and will report back. Thank you

 

So which fuse was blown? Are you back to your original problem?

 

PAhonda: it was fuse #21 under the dash(7.5a). and yes back to original problem. im going now to perform the test that redbull-1 linked in his orginal response to is thread.

 

[QUOTE=redbull-1;341043]1. The initial problem was probably due to a faulty door multiplex control unit, which is incorporated into the power window master switch. A simpler test is described in this other thread for that.

https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...working-52178/

2. On the door multiplex control unit, cavity/terminal no. 10 is for the Grn/Wht wire which is protected by the under-dash Fuse No. 27 (20A) fuse. Double-check this fuse. Power for the power window relay and the under-dash fuse No. 27 comes from the under-hood No. 23 multi-fuse (50A/50A) (it has two 50A fuse built into it). Check to see if the multi-fuse is blow.





i ran the test talked about in the link redbull-1 provided. the test couldnt have been simpler and was easy to understand. after running the test and with the information it seems that the multi plex unit is bad. all windows worked upon jumping post #3 (wht/grn wire) with a wire to ground.

thank you all for the help and now im going to price a master power window switch.
redbull-1,PAhonda, and forum: In your opinion should i get a brand new one since this is a common problem ? because if i found and purchased a used one could it be more likely to go out?

 

A used one is probably fine. But, if you want to try to save even more money, use a small jumper wire to ground the door multiplex control unit between the cavity terminals (read the other posts near the end of the thread I linked), that may be okay as long as the car's multiplex control system does not stay awake with the car off and drain the car battery. The multiplex control system has sleep and wake modes. If the battery gets drained with the car off, then don't use it; but, that probably won't happen.

 

also my check engine light was on so i hook up a scan tool and it returned these codes: p0408 ,p0102 , 61-01 , 08-07 , 09-02

any thoughts ? the check engine light is now off but still is returning those codes