strange electrical problem -2005 honda accord
#11
Even if under-dash fuse no. 28 is good, the moonroof/sunroof also relies on a working under-dash fuse no. 21 (7.5A). Under-dash fuse no. 21 needs to be check again.
Most likely no.
#12
Pahonda: yes that absolutely makes sense and that's exactly what i did. I wedged the black lead of my multi meter to negative battery terminal and proceeded to check every fuse. The larger fuses i pulled checked the terminals for power where they where then checked those fuses with a test light as well as with the multi meter for resistance across terminals out the fuse. Everything has checked out. Im having a hard time figuring why I'm not getting power to certian fuses when everything I've checked has been good
#13
Redbull-1: headlights, high beams and low beams do work. But not much else. My instrument panel does light up briefly when i open door and put key in ignition,but turns off within seconds. But when it did illuminate none of my gauges move, example: gas gauge, temp gauge. They're all dead.blinkers don't wirk unless i push hazard button.
I'll recheck under dash fuse no. 21 and the rest of them and report back. Thanks guys/ gals for your time and insight . I sure need the help
I'll recheck under dash fuse no. 21 and the rest of them and report back. Thanks guys/ gals for your time and insight . I sure need the help
#15
In the under hood fuse box, fuse 1 and 6 will only get power when the low beams are on. Fuse 3 and 5 get power only when the high beams are on. Please verify this is what happens.
Under dash fuse box 24, 25, and 26 are powered by the power window relay. You may want to swap that relay with an identical one nearby, then retest the power windows and fuse 24-26.
Retest for power on both sides of fuses #7 and #21 under the dash.
Under dash fuse box 24, 25, and 26 are powered by the power window relay. You may want to swap that relay with an identical one nearby, then retest the power windows and fuse 24-26.
Retest for power on both sides of fuses #7 and #21 under the dash.
#17
The power window relay is probably good, like I previously mentioned your initial problem sounded like the driver's multiplex control unit; which is a relatively common problem on your generation Accords.
This is from post #11 of the other thread I linked to early in this thread:
https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...g-52178/page2/
"For the front passenger window and rear windows to work, they need to receive voltage coming via the power window relay (a relay is basically a type of switch). The power window relay is a normally-open type relay. If the door multiplex control unit sends a ground signal via the Wht/Grn wire to the power window relay, the relay will close, which allow voltage to fuses, 24, 25, and 26.
The left rear window switch receives voltage through fuse 24, the right rear window switch receives voltage through fuse 25, and the right front window switch receives voltage through fuse 26. By attaching a wire to cavity 3 (where the Wht/Grn wire is) and grounding it, the power window relay closes, which then allow voltage to the front passenger switch and rear window switches.
The driver’s door window switch does not receive voltage through that power window relay."
This is from post #11 of the other thread I linked to early in this thread:
https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...g-52178/page2/
"For the front passenger window and rear windows to work, they need to receive voltage coming via the power window relay (a relay is basically a type of switch). The power window relay is a normally-open type relay. If the door multiplex control unit sends a ground signal via the Wht/Grn wire to the power window relay, the relay will close, which allow voltage to fuses, 24, 25, and 26.
The left rear window switch receives voltage through fuse 24, the right rear window switch receives voltage through fuse 25, and the right front window switch receives voltage through fuse 26. By attaching a wire to cavity 3 (where the Wht/Grn wire is) and grounding it, the power window relay closes, which then allow voltage to the front passenger switch and rear window switches.
The driver’s door window switch does not receive voltage through that power window relay."
#20
Fuse 21 protects the following components:
Back-up light switch (M/T), Front passenger’s power window switch
(EX, EX-L), Gauge control module, MICU, Hazard warning switch
('04-'05), Power window master switch, Relay control module,
Shift lock solenoid (A/T), Wiper/washer switch
Fuse 21 also needs to supply power to the MICU for the moonroof to work.
Fuse 7 protects the following components:
Gauge control module, Immobilizer control unit-receiver, MICU,
Navigation display unit (EX-L: Navigation), Navigation unit (EX-L:
Navigation), Power window master switch (’05),
Wiper/washer switch
- First re-check that under-dash Fuse 21 and 7 are okay.
- If those two fuses are okay, is there power on both sides of those fuses with the ignition ON?
- If there is power on both sides of those fuses with the ignition ON, either wiring; or the fusebox; or the MICU may be damaged. On your car, the MICU is replaced as part of the fuse/relay box.
- If there is power on only one side of those fuses with the ignition ON, then there is an open in the wiring from the under-hood fuse box leading to the under-dash fuse box.