For the ball joint stud, find a sledge hammer. Hit the lower control arm casing on the side where the bolt goes through. Then hit the bottom of the bolt to knock it out.

Use the sledge hammer on the ball joint from the bottom and it will come out.

Penetrating oil may help.

Here is a video on the exact problem you are having.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zd5IcN3yjsg

 

Hey PA I had already seen Eric's video. His came apart a little easier than mine.

Your advice is what I was already thinking. I have an air hammer also so I may try that on the ball joint as well.

 

I got everything out. I used heat on the lower control arm, and banged the hell out of it (where the stud goes thru) - then smacked it from below until it popped out.

On the ball joint, I purposely cocked it a bit in the bore so that the flange of the ball joint where it was interfering was moved over as far as possible. Then I jammed a screwdriver between the ball joint and knuckle casting. I hit it from below with an air hammer - then removed the screwdriver - hit it again with the hammer and it popped right out.

As soon as I began to install the new ball joint I promptly discovered that my tool (one of those universal c-clamp style tools) was not going to cut it. I had read where you guys had talked about needing the "Honda tool". Now I get it.

I debated cutting up one or more of the adapters of my tool. Then thought about getting a piece of iron pipe and modifying it. This before it came to me to call O'Reillys. They have the correct tool as part of their rental program, so I plan on getting that - possibly tomorrow.

 

I got the Honda tool, and man that thing is essential IMO for this job. Pressed the new ball joint in just fine. However when I put in the new axle and buttoned everything up, I discovered that I have a problem.

The steering knuckle is hitting the strut. Something must have gotten bent when the ball joint broke, although I can't tell by looking everything over. My suspicion is the upper control arm. It would make sense (to me anyway) that this could have bent, and the geometry of such a thing could cause the problem I'm seeing.

The camber is way off - the top of the wheel is leaning inboard. Fortunately I had already decided before discovering this that I would replace the upper control arms for good measure - so those parts are on the way. But I would feel better about all this if I could SEE something bent. But I can't.

Do you guys think a new control arm will fix things up?

 

A new upper control arm did not change anything.

I got a new radius rod and compared it. It was identical, so I stayed with the old one.

I then removed the struts and replaced them. Lo and behold, this is what the one from the left side looked like when it came out.



Finally a "smoking gun". But when I put the new struts in... same problem. The knuckle hits the strut - can't turn the wheel.

So I'm wondering at this point if the steering knuckle got bent? How often do these get bent does anybody know?

At this point I can't think of much else.

 

I'd try using a tape measure and compare the driver and passenger side of the vehicle.

Use a fixed point like a bolt for the brake line on the knuckle to the bottom to see if you can find a difference.

 

That's a good idea PA. I'll do that.

It also occurred to me that if the force of the event was enough to bend the strut like that, then the lower control arm might have gotten tweaked as well.

Fortunately the LCA is inexpensive, so I have that on the way. (If mine isn't bent I can return it) And next chance I get I'll do some measuring on the knuckle. Thanks.

 

I got a new lower control arm, and a salvage knuckle.

As you suggested, I put a tape measure on the knuckles between where the brake hose retainer mounts - and the top where the upper control arm attaches. There was easily 1/8" to 3/16" difference between the two. The one on the car being shorter.

Since the "new" knuckle came with a ball joint, I installed it just to have a look-see. Voila - the knuckle cleared the spring and everything turned as normal.

So I wasted no time in moving my new lower ball joint, rotor, bearing and hub over to the "new" knuckle and installed it. I eyeballed the lower control arm as compared to the new one, but I could not see any difference. The LCA is pretty beefy, so I presumed and hoped that maybe it was okay.

When I had everything torqued and back together, I did a quickie toe adjustment and road tested. The car feels good. Solid, tight, quiet, tracks straight, no pull. I am pleased.

Thanks guys for all the input along the way. The Honda lives.

 

Good to hear