Timing Belt on '03 accord
#11
02-12-2012, 08:57 AM
hey fellas,
I've done a few of these jobs on the 03-07's. you CAN check the condition of the timing belt, contrary to an earlier reply. Both front and rear plastic cam covers (v6) have inspection holes (rubber grommet that lifts up and turns to look at belt). Often this is hard to see into and assess. I recommend removing the front timing belt upper cover. It's held in place with about five 10 mm. Inspect the belt for any cracking, wear, discoloration. If it doesn't look in perfect condition, replace it now and save yourself the money in cylinder head rebuilding or engine replacement down the road (been there, made that mistake). Always do the water pump replacement during this time. Read and re-read the hydraulic tension instructions before removing the belt and quadruple check the timing marks before you crank it... for the younger mechanics the spring action of the cams causes the cam pulleys to snap clockwise (getting the timing marks about one tooth off) so I recommend holding the cams slightly retarded while sliding on the belt, working from crank- clockwise. For the pesky crank bolt- 19mm? if I remember? it can be a bear even with a good quality impact gun. I suggest a good penetrating oil, high capacity air tank, and beer. worst case, I've seen it done to use a 6-pt socket on a bad-*** breaker bar propped against the subframe and tap the starter to loosen it. redneck- but effective.
I've done a few of these jobs on the 03-07's. you CAN check the condition of the timing belt, contrary to an earlier reply. Both front and rear plastic cam covers (v6) have inspection holes (rubber grommet that lifts up and turns to look at belt). Often this is hard to see into and assess. I recommend removing the front timing belt upper cover. It's held in place with about five 10 mm. Inspect the belt for any cracking, wear, discoloration. If it doesn't look in perfect condition, replace it now and save yourself the money in cylinder head rebuilding or engine replacement down the road (been there, made that mistake). Always do the water pump replacement during this time. Read and re-read the hydraulic tension instructions before removing the belt and quadruple check the timing marks before you crank it... for the younger mechanics the spring action of the cams causes the cam pulleys to snap clockwise (getting the timing marks about one tooth off) so I recommend holding the cams slightly retarded while sliding on the belt, working from crank- clockwise. For the pesky crank bolt- 19mm? if I remember? it can be a bear even with a good quality impact gun. I suggest a good penetrating oil, high capacity air tank, and beer. worst case, I've seen it done to use a 6-pt socket on a bad-*** breaker bar propped against the subframe and tap the starter to loosen it. redneck- but effective.
#12
02-12-2012, 09:28 AM
If you go to different dealerships to get prices, make sure they are all going to change the same parts. It's easy for them to charge less, if they only change half the parts. I would suggest changing both pulleys, because the ones I took off had shockingly little grease in them.
#13
03-04-2012, 01:36 PM
Just an update...
Hey,
after all of your helpful comments, I decided to go ahead and get the timing belt/water pump replaced (including the tension, and pulleys) for a little over over $800 (using original Honda parts).
as for the Ps Noise, I was told that it was not the o-ring, but that the PS hose had a leak, which was dripping onto the exhaust and had to be replaced in order to prevent any serious fires from happening. This end up costing my about 250$. all together, therefore, I spent over $1300 with tax (ouch!)
Now the issue I have now is two-folded:
1) The noise coming from the PS is still there, and in fact is actually a bit louder now.
2) My "check engine" light came on after driving only about 20-30 km.
This light has never came on before, so is it just a coincidence (and bad luck) that it came on after the work was done to the car? Or is it possible that it could be connected to the work done by the mechanics (who seemed to be very experienced with Hondas)
Side note: I know that my spark plugs also need to be replaced because of the km on the car, but is it possible that this would trigger the light to come off JUST a day after all the work was done to the car?
Looking forward to hearing your replies,
Mike.
after all of your helpful comments, I decided to go ahead and get the timing belt/water pump replaced (including the tension, and pulleys) for a little over over $800 (using original Honda parts).
as for the Ps Noise, I was told that it was not the o-ring, but that the PS hose had a leak, which was dripping onto the exhaust and had to be replaced in order to prevent any serious fires from happening. This end up costing my about 250$. all together, therefore, I spent over $1300 with tax (ouch!)
Now the issue I have now is two-folded:
1) The noise coming from the PS is still there, and in fact is actually a bit louder now.
2) My "check engine" light came on after driving only about 20-30 km.
This light has never came on before, so is it just a coincidence (and bad luck) that it came on after the work was done to the car? Or is it possible that it could be connected to the work done by the mechanics (who seemed to be very experienced with Hondas)
Side note: I know that my spark plugs also need to be replaced because of the km on the car, but is it possible that this would trigger the light to come off JUST a day after all the work was done to the car?
Looking forward to hearing your replies,
Mike.
#15
03-04-2012, 07:37 PM
Thank you, good suggestion.
However, the light came off by itself after driving about 9 KM (not miles). Any idea why it did this?
However, the light came off by itself after driving about 9 KM (not miles). Any idea why it did this?
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