I have a 1988 accord dx 2bbl. Timing belt was changed in Jan. 2005 and have only put about 8000 miles on it. Belt broke last week. Replaced belt and it immediatlely broke again. Found that camshaft was locked/frozen in place. Replaced entite cyclinder head and yet another timing belt. Ran fine for about 90 miles and broke the timing belt again. Have checked both crank and cam pulleys and both seem ok. What else should I look at?

 

when you had the head off did the bottom part of the engine spin freely? Also what about the tensionser? If it is too tight then you will snap belts as well.

 

Yes, the cracnk shaft was easy to spin with a ratchet on the pulley bolt. I checked the tensioner and it still seems fine from the change last year. It spins freely and has no wobble. I am going to change it anyway this time along with the cam and crank pulley just to be on the safe side. Was wondering if I should pull out the oil pump and check it also.

 

Is the cam turn normally? Maybe you're not getting enough oil up to the head? Are you over tightening the belt?

 

is that a new cam in there?

does it have any discolorations from heat buildup? you might want to pull the valve cover off and see what the cam looks like.

If your have low oil pressure and a blockage, that would cause your cam to bind and usually they snap from the heat

 

Yes, its a new cam. The oil idiot light doesnt come on indicating low oil pressure. I checked the oil and it is midway between the two dots on the sick. I don't see any color distortion, hower the part of the cam closest to the sprocket does not appear to be as well oiled as the rest of the cam. So we are gonna pull the oil pump out and have a look at it. We blew the head out with air before we put it on so I dont think there would be a blockage there. Someone mentioned to me might be a thrust bearing going out? Im gonna put it all back together after checking the oil pump, replacing the tensioner (and tightening it correctly). The sprockets on both the cam and crank look ok so Im gonna reuse em. Everything I've been told or read points to the tensioner as being the prob assuming both cam and crank turn freely and they do turn freely. I'll post my results after I'm done. Hopefully this one lasts for a while. Thanks for the help and info.

 

Have you checked it? Does it turn freely? Does it make any noise?

 

First thig that i would do is to chk oil pressure I know you said lite does not come on,, but what if there is a faulty sending unit ?? remove sending unit and hook up an oil pressure gauge ,,this way you will know for sure.........Another way is to start the engine without the valve cover ( inkow it will be a bit messy ) and see how much oil actually gets at the top to lube the cam,, ,,,,,,oil pick up screen partially plugged ? oil pump worn ?

Also,, back off all of the rocker arm adjuster nuts all of them , so when you spin the cam the valves will not hit the pistons ,, turn the camshaft by the 12mm bolt at the cam pulley,, if it does not spin freely you got to repair ( replace ) as necessary. but if you installed a different head i doubt that , it is the problem,,
As car overheated on you recently ?? the head you installed , was it used ?? it came with the cam and rocker assembly correct ?
is the belt totally snapped or are the teeth stripped ?

but from what you are saying i would have to agree with the other members it does sound like a lack of lubrication , and cam seizing