Here's a photo of the back of the steering knuckle on a Honda Accord (not a 92 like ours) with bolts pointed out with yellow arrows:

and labelled as 23 in the diagram below:


On our 92 these bolts look like they are some kind of torx head. Here's an example:


What do you call the head on those bolts; what size are they; and why, oh why, did Honda use them?

Is a "reverse torx" impact socket available for them and, if so, where do I buy one?

Other than removing the wheel and caliper, how much more disassembly, if any, is absolutely required BEFORE removing those bolts?

Can I replace them with bolts having a normal hex head?

OK, I've found a place that apparently deals with these bolts.
http://www.wihatools.com/torxspec.htm
Lots of good information:


The only question I have now is - what "E" size are those torx bolts on the wheel?

 

Maybe it's not necessary to remove those bolts to get the rotor off.

Anyone ever tried this device? (Looks like it might be just the fast ticket for rotor removal. Check out the "video")
http://try-intools.com/index.html

 

Now it makes sense *L* I've seen those before but I'm horrible with terminology.... I don't believe that they have to be removed to get the rotors off....

 

I've been studying that tool whose link I posted. I think it is a great design.

As far as I can tell the "legs" attached to the outer steel disk act as a platform (with the old rotor as a secure base).

The inside disk is secured to the hub via the lug nuts.

The inside disk has welded to its center a cylinder whose interior is threaed. That cyclinder can slide up and down freely inside a larger cylinder that is welded to the outer disk.

By tightening the bolt, the inner disk (and the hub to which it is bolted) is pulled toward the outer disk. The legs resting on the old rotor act as an immovable base against which the outer disk can "push".

The larger cylinder of the outer disk is sufficiently long to allow the inner cylinder to be drawn up inside it so as to pull the hub up and off fully (to separate the wheel bearing fully).
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Well, as I said, that is a very nicely designed tool, but it's expensive and complicated. Why not use this?


Remove caliper, axle nut and rotor bolts. Attach puller to lugs and hammer off hub. Replace rotor, lube wheel bearing and re-attach hub.

Am I missing something here?

 

Those are called 'internal' torx bolts; if you get that rotor off without taking the bearing loose; you can rename yourself Houdini

 

Those are some oddbal bolts Honda decided to use on some of em. Dont see them very often.

 

AUTO ZONE HAS THOSE IN A 5 OR 6 SIZE KIT IN THERE TOOL ISLE..GO BUY YOURSELF A SET,....
Abot 6.99 I think...
WheebrokerAng [sm=americanasmiley.gif]

 

E-torx was question! ? No answer. My question also. E-14 at adv auto was CLOSE? Havent bought yet . Eric the car guy uses 12 point socket approx. 12 mm. I'm approaching that rebuild and assure you the hex- head bolt will not FIT as stated by others. There is a reason 4 torx head (it's thin) . Note. Invest in PB BLADTER WEEKS B4 .USE IT ALL OVER. 90 accord lx 4dr replied. G luck!

 

PB Blaster. Note. When ordering this torx head. Its #24 in hobda diagram. Not 23 wheel hub bolts. (This based on Honda pic site catalog)