Hi all,

I have a 2001 Honda Accord EX 4 cyl with a manual transmission.

Today when I unplugged my cell phone power adapter the power port literally fell apart -- the plastic cap came off and most of the assembly pulled out of the console. The wires are still attached to the socket, but the metal sheathing the socket attaches to has dropped into the console. It isn't lost, since the wires are threaded through it, but I can't get a grip on it through the console cutout.

The outside of the socket is threaded at the bottom. I assume it threads into the metal sheathing that's loose inside the console, but I can't figure out how to get a grip on the sheathing so as to screw the socket back in.

Can anybody offer some advice?

Thanks,
David

 

I've done this but it's been awhile & I don't have that car anymore. It's a pain to remove that #11 box where the power outlet is mounted. First you have to remove the panel just above it, like the ceiling to that compartment. It just snaps downward, but there's no good way to grab it & pull.

 

Yikes... Do I have to remove everything listed in that diagram? Or is it just a convenient diagram to post that contains a lot more stuff than I need to worry about?

I guess the question is: what is the minimum number of components shown in that diagram that have to come out to get to the #11 box? I realize you may not know, since you no longer have this model car. But maybe somebody else knows?

Thanks,
David

 

Thats just a parts blowup of the console area. You won't have to remove everything.

From the diagram, the cup holder, the #28 screws holding down #11. Jim mentioned the panel above #11? A Haynes manual would have this information. I think that you can download a 98-02 shop manual from the links in the Online Manuals thread in the DIY section.

 

Thanks, PAhonda and Jim Blake. Fixed now.

For the record, in case somebody else has to do the same thing. Here's what I did, in the order I did it:

1. Remove the cup holder. It lifts out straight up, no screws. I gently wedged a flat screwdriver in the sides to get it started.

2. Unclip the black shifter cover (#24 in the diagram) from the **** at the top. Squeeze the front and back just under the **** and it should pull down.

3. Unscrew the shift **** from the top of the shaft. In my case, it was pretty tight -- didn't feel like it would turn at all. I checked for a set screw, didn't find one, and tried turning the **** again -- harder than I thought made sense -- but it worked.

4. Remove the plastic cover labeled #13 in the diagram above. It will also have the shifter cover (#24) attached. The entire assembly comes off together. There are no screws, just a series of clips around the outer edges. Pry gently with a flat screwdriver to get them started. When you've released the clips, you'll have to maneuver the part to get the parking brake handle through the opening; I found it easier to remove (and later reassemble) by putting the transmission into 1st gear. I left the parking brake engaged the whole time, which I think made it easier to get the part off and on.

5. Remove the upper panel. It's not in the diagram above, but it's what sits above #11 on the diagram. Pry gently with a flat screwdriver at the top; when the top is loose, you can reach in and try grasping the bottom of the panel and pulling. I have large hands, so this wasn't exactly easy... but it also didn't take long. There are no screws in this panel, only four clips.

(Note: It is possible to skip this step during disassembly, doing steps 6 and 7 without doing step 5. However you will discover that you have to do step 5 anyway when it's time to reassemble, because it's either really difficult or impossible to get part #11 positioned correctly if the panel above it is installed. So better to save time later and just do this step now.)

6. Remove the two screws holding panel #11, then lift the panel out. Be careful when lifting/pulling that you don't yank the power outlet wires.

7. Once this panel is lifted, you can turn it and access the bottom to reassemble the power outlet. You may have to move the shift lever into 2nd gear to make room when turning the #11 panel over, if you didn't disconnect the wires.

8. (Optional) Since I had everything disassembled, I took the opportunity to clean all these parts thoroughly. I disconnected the wires (they unclip from the bottom of the socket) and brought all the disconnected parts in the house to clean them thoroughly with a damp cloth and (for the stickier messes in the cup holder) some dish detergent. It's really the only way to get at some of the gunk that can build up in the seams between the various parts. Make sure all parts are dry before reassembling, especially the insulating pad on the underside of the panel. (I washed carefully to avoid getting that pad wet.)

9. The power outlet can be reassembled by screwing the metal shield/sheathing (#2 in the diagram) onto the socket (#1 in the diagram), making sure the cap (#3 in the diagram) is properly positioned on top. This may not make sense reading it here, but it will make sense when you have the parts in front of you. If you did optional step 8 above, you'll also have to reattach the wires to the socket. Remember to have the shield/sheathing (#2) positioned correctly on the wires before you reattach.

10. Reassemble everything in reverse order.

Hope this is useful to somebody else...

Dave

 

Excellent follow up. Thanks for posting your solution so it can help out others.

 

Excellent write-up. Yes, it's just a parts diagram since I didn't have a drawing that shows ONLY removing the #11 box. Plus, I didn't know how much more you had to remove to find all the pieces...