When reinstalling a distributor, at the point where I pop it in and make sure the offset coupling interfaces properly with the camshaft (not 180 degrees off), is it possible to accidentally rotate the camshaft?

I thought you needed a wrench to turn the camshaft by hand, could it be possible to do it accidentally when putting the distributor on?

I think not because I would need to grab the distributor shaft and spin it, the housing spins around the shaft so rotating the housing wouldn't spin the camshaft.

Even if the camshaft spun around, does that change the timing situation and void all marks I've made to insure that I match it exactly where it was before I started? Again I don't believe it does since if the camshaft spins it's the same as if the engine was at that position before the dizzy was pulled off.

I'm getting paranoid though because the Haynes manual tells you to make adjustment marks and then it says if the camshaft is rotated the marks are meaningless so don't rotate it. I don't think the timing mark is meaningless, I think they mean the mark that positions the rotor relative to the dizzy housing. It's just so vague...

 

If the spark plugs are in the engine, then it would be very difficult to rotate the camshaft when installing the distributor. It takes some force turning the crankshaft with a socket wrench with the spark plugs installed. It would take a bit of force on the camshaft by installing the distributor, because the distributor shaft is on a bearing, so the distributor shaft would rotate.

There are two marks that you need to be concerned about. The mark (if you made one) of how the distributor housing aligned with the cylinder head. This would be fine tuning the timing. That will never change no matter how many times you turned the camshaft.

The other mark, which I think the haynes manual is describing, is that you want the distributor rotor pointing in the same direction that you removed it. If you turned the camshaft a lot, then that mark would be meaningless.

I managed to install my distributor 180 off. I replaced the distributor shaft/bearing like you are doing. It was getting dark out, so I thought I had it pointing in the proper direction. When I went to start the car and it wouldn't start and I knew what I did. I pulled the distributor, spun it 180 degrees and reinstalled it. The car started right up.

 

You didn't accidentally rotate the camshaft, and it's difficult not to rotate the distributor shaft after removal.

As PA points out, installation 180 off is easy to do and can damaage the distributor (I managed to do this) when bolts are tightend down. Engine will rotate but not start.

The key to correct installation is to observe whether the distributor flange is closed to flush w/ the cylinder head and you can rotate the distributor slightly. If all positions of the distributor are flush (w/o bolt tightening), you've correctly installed the distributor.

good luck

 

Alright, thanks for the response guys.

Would you guys happen to know what happens if the distributor internal wires are cracked open? As in the rubber insulation covering the wires is cracked on some parts exposing bare wires? Should I liquid electrical tape it with some high heat LET or can it just be left alone without stalling the car in the middle of the road (the only way I can see this happening is if voltage jumps from one wire to the other through the gap?

Also does motor oil attract moisture like brake fluid does? I want to take the distributor off now and work on taking it apart slowly for a day or two as I don't want to rush. But I don't want to leave the engine head with a gaping hole in it so things can be blown into the engine and motor oil where the distributor would be.

Maybe I can just tape the opening with duct tape until I'm done with the dizzy?

 

Oil won't soak up water. I would put a towel over the distributor hole. Using duct tape is excessive, because the oil is exposed to air from the throttle body.

If the insulation is cracked, use the electrical tape to prevent the wire from grounding to the distributor housing, or causing other strange problems.

 

Alright so I pulled the dizzy so I could work on it. Covered the whole with some weak tape.

Is it normal for the head to drip oil as soon as I pulled the dizzy? The car is parked on a slight incline. I pulled the dizzy out after I took the three mounting bolts off and as soon as I pulled it off oil dripped out (at least a steady stream for about two seconds) and there was oil just hanging on the bottom lip as if the engine was filled to the bottom lip of the distributor socket with oil.

I assume this has all to do with the oil level in the engine? I checked the dipstick recently and the oil was about up to the top hole on the dipstick. So maybe this thing is just filled with too much oil? Just want to make sure this isn't some kind of issue.

Also when I start the car recently it smells like burnt motor oil all around it but not under the hood. Makes me suspect oil is ending up in the cylinders but when I pulled the cap off to get the dizzy off I found more oil in the cap and the same burning smell. So maybe the rotor is burning some oil. The rotor is singed on the contacts as well.

My primary concern right now is the oil dripping after I pull the dizzy out. As for the oil smell I'll see if it resolves after I replace the internal seal, O-Ring and the cap and rotor.

 

You are overreacting.

The o-ring seal is there to prevent oil from getting out of the cylinder head. The grommet you are now replacing is to prevent oil from getting into the distributor. Oil can get on that edge as evidenced by your two oil leaks and the necessity of the two oil seals. There was probably a bit on the bottom lip of where the distributor sits.

 

Wow, I am just in disbelief.

I took apart the 93 dizzy and guess what? The internal oil seal wasn't even seated! It had advanced itself farther up the shaft and therefore there was no seal occurring at all! No wonder why oil was accumulating inside so rapidly. This also explains why there is so much oil in the region under the dizzy (EX: Starter motor), it's leaking in heavily and draining out of the little drain hole on the housing.

I have another problem though. I was comparing the dizzy shaft from the 95 (TD-59) and the 93 (TD-52) (I might have switched the model numbers around by accident) and realized that they're not exactly the same. On each the rotation of the metal tooth wheels for the sensors are different. In other words, the teeth are advanced/retarded compared to the other shaft.

If the sensors are dependent on the timing of the teeth in conjunction with the position of the rotor, I think this may cause a problem. I think one of them is the TDC sensor, if that's top dead center I'm afraid this is timing dependent. What boggles my mind though is both TD-59u and TD-52u are listed as compatible with the 93 and 95 Accord so why are the teeth set differently? Maybe it will still work anyway?

If it doesn't I only have one option and that is to use the 93 dizzy shaft. Since it rotated like it had sand in bearings I sprayed brake cleaner inside the bearing area and it now spins better and faster than the 95 dizzy shaft. Only problem now is it probably lost whatever factory lubrication was packed in there. Usually they pack bearings with grease. Maybe I can put another kind of lubricant in there? If anyone has an idea, please let me know. I would rather use this if I can lubricate it properly. Maybe silicone spray would work? Not sure how long it would last though.

Also the 95 dizzy shaft has a screw hole for the rotor. The 93 shaft has no screw hole. The rotor I plan on using with the 95 dizzy shaft also has no screw hole, it's a snap on rotor from Honda. Will this stay on the 95 shaft with the screw hole? If Honda has switched to screwless rotors across the board I would think 'yes'.

 

Oil seal unseated may mean excess crankcase pressure (PCV system not working correctly - check).

I don't know any way to remove the bearing end cover w/o damaging. It may be possible but I've never done it. I experimentally worked some grease in by squeezeing around the center of the cover, but no way to know if enough grease is installed. Not worth effort to repair distributor and install faulty seal or bearing. Replace both.

I have no idea about distributor compatibility. I would go w/ OEM specification for your car.

I know most distributor rotors are press-on. It should be quite snug.

good luck