Hi All,

My daughter totalled her 99 Accord last Sunday. She is OK, but no insurance to cover collision

I'm looking for a decent body to that needs a drivetrain because her's ran great.

What year Accord should I be looking for other than the obvious '99 that will easily take the 4 cyl?

THANKS

 

I think the 98-02 will work. The other accords that had F-series engines are the 90-93 and the 94-97, but I don't know how easy it would be to swap your engine and transmission into those bodies.

 

For 1998-2002 there's 3 different 4-cyl engines. For easiest swap, the car should match the engine.
- non-VTEC (Accord DX)
- VTEC (LX & EX)
- ULEV-VTEC (California car that might have moved out to the east coast?)

If you can do some wiring, just make sure if it's ULEV or not.

DX (non-VTEC) can swap with LX or EX (VTEC non-ULEV) without too much trouble but you have to add a few wires for VTEC. Or leave them hanging if your daughter's engine is a non-VTEC. Grab the ECU from your daughter's car before the crusher gets it.

Swapping a ULEV engine into a non-ULEV car or vice-versa would be a big hassle. Wiring harness is a lot different.

 

Thanks for the replys! Its a ULEV. Now I know what to look for.

Next question: After the accident, there is no battery power at all to the car. Before pulling it, I'd like to start the engine. The battery and cables are intact and I pulled the radiator support out with my truck. The air bags never went off. Is there a cut-off switch or something that would have tripped in the accident preventing battery power to the car?

 

I did a ULEV motor swapped into a non ULEV, and i have no problem with it so far, only a couple of small things are different.

 

No power to anything, I'd check the main fuses in the underhood fuse panel (do the haz lights work).

 

Interesting.....the hazards do work....will check fuse tomorrow!

 

Not going to dig out the wire diagrams yet, but most of the time the haz lights use a totally different circuit than most of the other things on the car.

...check the fuses, the "main" ones I was talking about are the higher amp (40 and up) ones with the window on top.

Good luck and glad everyone is ok.

 

Maybe Piggylover will share some more details, but here's what I think...

If you can't find a ULEV car, try to find a VTEC car (LX or EX). Use the exhaust manifold and front O2 sensor from the non-ULEV car. Along with the PCM from the non-ULEV car. That basically turns your engine into a non-ULEV VTEC. (You could be clever & swap the valve covers so it doesn't say ULEV.)