Hi again. Maybe you remember me posting two YEARS ago? Same car same problem! :) (94 EX with about 240k now) Just never got around to it at the time. Was forced to drive it as is for one year until the water pump gasket disintegrated so bad we were putting in a gallon of coolant to make it through the week, and since then girlfriend had to drive the even dodgier car while the accord sat with Stabil in the tank. No idea when timing belt was done but as I recall its damaged by leaking water pumps, and you have to pull it to get to the water pump anyways...

Trying to finally give things a second chance, the trick is that the car is parked 250 miles away. So whatever tools I need to do this job I mostly need to bring with me.

When I try to view the videos it gets too overwhelming to my more newbieish understanding and makes my head spin so just one step at a time can someone please walk me through a few bits.. have to remind myself I put a clutch in a saturn SL that still runs, and this can't be as hard, just take it slow... Sorry if i'm a little slow or need a little handholding, brain never recovered after a fall from a roof a decade ago. :( I did my clutch in this state but its hard for me to understand the 'big picture' sometimes... So step one Tools...

What tools do I need to properly complete the job of timing belt and water pump? (and draining/refilling antifreeze as well) I'm thinking...

General socket set (though if any needed that are nonstandard please suggest)
Torque wrench (do I need more than one size or easy to get to bolts?)
Car jack and stuff to get tire off obviously
Multiple jackstands (incl one to hold the socket in place that needs all the leverage for that crank bolt)
Two strong 1/2" breaker bars for that crank bolt
At least a 6 foot cheater pipe
Probably a propane torch head in case I have to heat the bolt to get it to let go... (is there a 'too much' to be concerned about like blackening oil from overheat or is this a relatively safe procedure?)

Thats mostly focused on the first problem of "that crank bolt". There's a tool that helps remove it Autozone will 'borrow' (sell/refund after use) which I plan to get too... but even people with the tool I recall seeing youtube video of two guys on 6 feet of pipe and not seeing it move without torching it before so.. assuming worst.

What OTHER tools should I need in addition to the above? Or is it super straightforward once the crank bolt is off? (also is it some kind of PITA to get it back on or is it tight by accident not requirement/easy to torque to what it needs)

- this is the timing belt kit i'd already ordered and paid for before, I hope it's the right one or/and I shouldnt need anything extra. (although if I do, please advise - I have actually more than a week to complete this job so hopefully that's enough even if I need something more)

Is there anything else I should be trying to replace, specially inspect, or being concerned about while doing the TB/WP?

Far as I know the car otherwise was working fine when parked, we just put a CV shaft in there after which it was happy except for the water pump... just couldn't drive The Sieve anymore til that got fixed.

FWIW I have to know what tools i'm bringing by late mon or early tuesday cuz thats when I drive to where it's parked. :-P

 

Yes, the crank bolt is the biggest "issue" - but you seem to have read and have a good plan for getting that.

Don't forget general metric wrenches (8, 10, 12, 14?). I'd also throw in a spark plug socket, I find it was easier to spin the engine over with the plugs out. Add a marker (sharpie). I'd suggest both 3/8 and 1/4 drive metric socket sets with different length extensions.

Before you remove the timing/balance belts, make marks across the belt edge to the "gears". Then once you have the old belts off, transfer the marks (count the number of teeth) from the old belts to the new ones. Then when you are putting the new ones on be sure the marks line up. Trust me this will save some possible frustration.

Think about a valve cover gasket and a little "gasket" sealer. A dab of sealer on the WP o-ring, just enough to hold it in place as you put the water pump on - that way it won't slip out of the groove and get pinched as you tighten the WP bolts.....then you will also need some in the "hump/corners" of the valve cover gasket....new or re-use the old one.

 

Thanks for the heads up... okay so its a good time to replace the valve cover too, and the sealer also helps install the water pump... I wonder if anyone knows about the copper spray on gasket stuff, and whether that works as well on a honda.. if you've not heard of this I used it when I did my for comparison 6:40 and i've had no leaks and no problems, dries tacky. Perhaps logically only on the water pump (if at all) cuz the valve cover be pulled off later, i'm not as sure if it's meant to be pulled/replaced/pulled/replaced.

I have leaks from the oil pan too but since i'm not pulling that I figure that can get fixed in the future/not trying to do everything, just the things directly related to "pulling parts/already there".

Relooking at my old post and followups I guess I should include a plan to flush the block, heater core, and radiator with a garden hose while the coolant is out. (any links/suggestions on how to best do that? I mean is it just empty and run water thru or something more? yes ive never done a flush before, yet ive replaced a clutch, my repair experiences are due to poverty and learning as i go so first time for anything :P )

Hoping the linked belt kit I bought included all the tensioner/idler parts I need.. if anyone has any favorite WP/TB videos on the subject can also link, I plan to watch a couple before starting work but there may be better ones or known flaws/someones video was wrong about. :) My only other lapse is someone mentioned a "front balance shaft retaining bracket" and I wasnt sure if that's something I needed to order a replacement for, or just something i'll know what to do with once i'm looking thru the manual/watching videos...

 

To get the car "repaired" enough to get home....valve cover gasket is not needed.....on mine I give them at least two "installs" before I worry.

As for the sealer, it is a personal preference thing. I like the gray silicone but that is me.

 

My opinion about the spray-on gasket stuff, is that it's OK for a part that calls for a cut-paper gasket or as a sealant together with a flat gasket. Your Honda waterpump will have a groove for the O-ring which isn't a good configuration for the spray-on gasket.

Maybe spray a little puddle of the stuff and use a dab of that just enough to "stick" the O-ring into place? You can almost do the same thing with some stiff grease. O-rings need to settle into their proper position when the system is pressurized - they don't like to be really glued into place.

 

Interesting... yes I suppose that is possible. Though I was assuming that being torqued down isn't going to leave much wiggle room anyways, and that to some degree in the groove is in the groove, esp if further sealed with the spray gasket... I know mine doesn't seem to have leaked a drop (and the video maker swears by it) but I can see the merit in both positions. FWIW the spray gasket isnt so tacky that a little dab will stick it, it's tacky but its a light tacky - keeps the light gasket from flying off I mean. Yet can pull the gasket off again. (may even have enough room to wiggle and settle just fine) If I used stiff grease instead would that be an issue vs the silicone i'm assumedly supposed to smear on the rest of it though? I think this is just a way to make install easier. Meanwhile, any other suggestions for tools or walkthrough information? I'm possibly stuck here until wedsday morning instead. (just broke a wheel stud on the car meant to drive down and now have to fix that first)