Best bang for the buck?
#6
The best bang for your buck is an upgraded rear swaybar .... the older accords could pull a CL-S or TL-S bar. IDK if that applies to 8th gen. Nitrous is cheap power, but you have to know a lot about it to make sure that your system is set up right. For anything over a 50 shot, I'd recommend a wideband O2 setup to make sure that it is operating properly. For really big shots or multi-staging, I'd also recommend an EGT setup.
The basic control that you'd want is WOT + window switch
Turbos are awesome, but pricey to put on the BB4YB list.
If you want to go by my upgrades: Lightweight crank pulley, upgraded S-pipe, racing anti-sway bars, short shifter (no use on an auto), polyurethane bushings, polyurethane mounts, ETD w/ custom mount
The basic control that you'd want is WOT + window switch
Turbos are awesome, but pricey to put on the BB4YB list.
If you want to go by my upgrades: Lightweight crank pulley, upgraded S-pipe, racing anti-sway bars, short shifter (no use on an auto), polyurethane bushings, polyurethane mounts, ETD w/ custom mount
#8
The new Tl bar will probably fit, but I would wait until the TL-S comes out to get a TL rear sway.
Progress makes about the thickest sway bar you can find, coming in at 24mm (for comparison, you likely have 17mm, TL has 19mm, and TL-S has 21mm (I think)). Comptech also makes some thick sways, but they sell under the CT Engineering name now.
OEM are fairly cheap, I did the TL-S sway for about $65 will all the bolts, bushings and brackets, but I bought new stabilizer links from the dealer as well and those were an additional $110. Aftermarket bars are usually adjustable (2-3 mounting holes on each side) for customized anti-roll amount, but at an added price. I think OEM bars are solid, and most aftermarket are hollow, which can make a difference.
Progress makes about the thickest sway bar you can find, coming in at 24mm (for comparison, you likely have 17mm, TL has 19mm, and TL-S has 21mm (I think)). Comptech also makes some thick sways, but they sell under the CT Engineering name now.
OEM are fairly cheap, I did the TL-S sway for about $65 will all the bolts, bushings and brackets, but I bought new stabilizer links from the dealer as well and those were an additional $110. Aftermarket bars are usually adjustable (2-3 mounting holes on each side) for customized anti-roll amount, but at an added price. I think OEM bars are solid, and most aftermarket are hollow, which can make a difference.
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