Surface tension of liquidgasoline in air (among other things) controls the predominant droplet size in the spray. Smaller is better, because that's better surface:volume ratio. You have to evaporate that gasoline before you can burn it. So anything that gives more surface area is better.

But... it still smells like snake oil to me. I find it hard to belive that a verysmall molfraction of H2 in the air will have much affect on atomization & evaporation. Fuel pressure & the details of nozzle design would be way more important here. Ya think a little company like Honda would have tried higher pressure & different nozzles in their R&D departments?

 

In short, that device will not increase your gas mlieage. If you think it will, you'll probably be helped by one of these, too: http://www.qray.com/

But here'san idea that will lead to real energy savings.

First, get some aftermarket brake/electic generators (you know, they're in those hybrid cars) and install them on your car's wheels. Then pile a fewhundred pounds ofstorage batteries in your trunk and "hook up" the electricoutput from the brakes to the batteries. (The batteries are a completelyseparate circuitfrom the regular automotivebattery in the front of the car, of course).Install a 120v inverter on the storagebattery arrary's 12Voutput. Whenever you hit the brakes, you'll be charging the array of batteries. Do you have to endure stop and go traffic toand from work? Good.The more, the better!

Second, remove the rear seat(s) and install in its place an insulated tank that will hold 400 or 500 lbs of antifreeze solution. "Install"in the tank a coil of copper tubing that will carry engine coolant to and from the engine."Hook up" the cars cooling system so that hot engine coolant will pass through the coil in thetank. The enginewillheat the water in the tank - "for free"! (You decide on how hot you want to let the water in the tank get. You'll probably have to keep the windows rolled down, even during the winter.)

Third, remove one of the walls of your living room and install in its placea well-insulated garage door.

Now you're ready for some energy savings!

During the home-heating months, after that longtripfrom work, drive the car right into your living room (don't block your view of the TV). The engine and other hot metal on the car, as well as the hot water in the tank,will put into thehome a remarkable amount of heat, and therefore reduce the amount of energy necessary to heat the house.

At all times of the year, youcanconnect any electically-powered device to the inverter connection on the car and use the powergenerated by stopping the vehicle that isstored in those batteries. The longer you drive to and from work, and the more batteries you stick in the car, the more power you'll have stored for use at home!

There! Let me know how it turns out.

Seriously, though, during Energy Crisis I, I beleive it was Volvo that made a stand-alone, diesel-engine-based "energy unit" that would sit in the basement of a home or business. The engine drove a high-quality electric generator that would power any electical device in use at the time, butalso charge an array of storage batteries.

The engine's "cooling system"included a large heat-sink.I think it was a 600 gal plastic tank filled with water.

The engine was either 2 or 3 cylinders and was extemely efficient so the conversion of the energy in the diesel fuel to electrical energywas asgood as it gets.

The system was supposed to run for just enough time to charge the batteries and heat the water in the tank. Then the home would use the electricity in the batteries to run things, and the hot water in the tank would be used to heat the house. The heated engine block itself would also radiate heat into the living space.

Of course how often the engine would run would be determined by how fast the batteries ran down and the water cooled, so the more efficient the use of the electricty and water, the less frequently the engine would run. During the winter, if the water cooled off faster than the batteries would discharge, one could connect an electric heater and the batteries would drain much more quickly. Etc.

The thing that makes the Volvo system more attractive nowadays is those added exhorbitantfees that electricity and natural gas providers tack onto monthy bills. If one can disconnect from those services, those exhorbitant extrafees go bye bye.

Of course if you live in a windy or sunny place, wind turbines and solar cells and solar heaters can reduce the need to be connected to a service provider.

 

the fact is that the amount of energy the alternator needs to create to sustain the reaction in the water would be less than the amount of power generated by the combination (explosion) of hydrogen, oxygen, and gasoline, as engines only transfer about 25% of the explosive energy into the pistons (eventually ending up to the wheels)
also, sorry to be the chemistry police finch, but your equations are off a bit. the breakdown of water into hydrogen and oxygen is like this:
one idea however would be to charge an array of batteries in the trunk from your household current, then use that instead of the alternator to power the electrolysis. When you get home, just plug the batteries back in. not sure how well that would work though.


EDIT: let me share a few quotes from this guys website:
wait wait wait... the presence of oxygen makes an explosve gas (explosive because it combines with oxygen) SAFER? the mixture of oxygen gas and hydrogen gas ("HHO") is one of the most explosve gasses around.

HHO =/= water

also, this "map sensor enhancer" is bull. It basically intercepts the line going from the map sensor to the ECU and throws a couple of variable resistors in there, basically splitting the already split voltage from the sensor, allowing you to increase or decrease the map sensors reading.

his "vaporizor" is basically a bong. literally, thats exactly what it is, except instead of smoke it uses the gas produced from electrolysis.

the fuel heater is just a brass fitting thats spliced into the fuel line and zip-tied to the upper radiator hose, then your supposed to wrap aluminum foil around the two.


Putting a device like the water4gas thing into your gasoline engine wont particularly hurt anything, however putting it into a diesel is outright dangerous for the engine. diesels have extremely high compression because the fuel is injected directly into the cylinder around TDC, then the compression and heat allow the fuel to ignite by itself (without a spark). however using a system like this sprays fuel into the engine in the intake manifold. the high compression/heat will ignite the "HHO" before the diesel fuel is injected, giving the diesel less oxygen in the combustion chamber, increasing the engines temperature, and causing an effect similar to that of engine knock (detonation)

 

Okay, so we are all agreeing that the MPG product that was first questioned about, is not a real big help?

 

Here's an energy saver that anyone could use:

http://www.sungrabber.net/solar-hot-water-heater-how-it-works.html

 

i went to china few months ago and you see those on just about every single house / apt building there. their everywhere.

 

They are an awesome idea! You can retrofit any hot water heater through the drain.

 

however the ones in china (and most other retail ones) are significantly different.
heres a picture I took while I was there: http://nafango.org/pics/solarWaterHeater.jpg

 

same idea ..... the one that I posted is a retrofit for any normal hot water heater or storage tank. Another good idea is to use a tank rather than a heater with an indirect heating coil fed by the house boiler. For the most part, as you combine heating or cooling systems, they gain efficiency.