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Tapping factory fuse panel

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  #11  
Old 10-25-2007, 03:30 PM
MacLeod's Avatar
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Default RE: Tapping factory fuse panel

Definitely. If its an in-dash unit than the factory power lead will work. Im assuming he's wanting to use a remote changer thatll mount in the trunk. For that, he'll need to run off the power wire he has ran for his amp.


 
  #12  
Old 10-25-2007, 03:47 PM
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Default RE: Tapping factory fuse panel

Yeah .... I got that from your last post ..... I guess we have to wait to see what he is actually using.

Thumper: 1) What is your amp's RMS Wattage?
2) Is the changer in-dash or trunk mounted?
 
  #13  
Old 10-25-2007, 04:01 PM
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Default RE: Tapping factory fuse panel

i'm using an alpine hu. i'll use a harness to power that. i'd just like to power the 701 in the trunk and alpine changer in the glove boxwithout using a distro. so, i can't use an open slot in the fuse block to power it? also, that's a no on tying into the HU power? (i thought that was a bit much for that one feed).

on the amp, it does 60x2, 170x2, and 750x1 @ 4 ohms. i have 1/0 running to the back for the amp. the amp has 2 gauge wire inputs on it, so i figured I'd run 1/0 straight to the amp, then use reducers to actually screw into place.

I appreciate the help on this. I've just been trying to think outside the box a little bit. If I need something like an 8 gauge with a distro for the changer and 701, I can do that. I'd just rather not if possible.
 
  #14  
Old 10-25-2007, 04:19 PM
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Default RE: Tapping factory fuse panel

1) Radio lead can't be used for the changer; too much draw & not allowed for competition per MacLeod.
2) Why run the lead from the changer to the 701? Just power the 701 from the 1/0 lead. It has the spare capacity that you need.
3) I'd trust the Sr. Electrical Engineer that I work with that a 110 Amp load should be carried by a 1 guage wire rather than using a 2 guage because that is the connector size. I know that you are using 1/0 which is fine.
4) The sound processor isn't going to take that much power, so again there won't be any problem in tapping off of the 1/0 lead. That 1/0 lead can be fused as high as 125 Amps safely per the National Electrical Code.
 
  #15  
Old 10-25-2007, 04:35 PM
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Default RE: Tapping factory fuse panel

it's more of a nuance than anything else...i just don't want to have to put a distro block back there for a single dinky little wire. i'll just run a dedicated 8 gauge and agu distro to power the 701 and changer. i'll put the HU on it as well.

also, on the 1/0, the 12v wiring codes we've seen gives 1/0 at least 250 amps to be fused for, and I think some go up to 300. My understanding was 4 gauge could be fused at 125. Just a thought. Was you guy figuring for house current?
 
  #16  
Old 10-25-2007, 08:02 PM
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Default RE: Tapping factory fuse panel

I'm guessing this is an obvious no, but if the changer and 701 have their own fuses, can I just solder the power leads to the 8 gauge cable? I've done something similar before, and just covered everything in heatshrink so it's secure and there's no exposed leads. The 8 gauge would be fused at the battery, so there wouldn't be any open or loose ends.
 
  #17  
Old 10-26-2007, 08:42 AM
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Default RE: Tapping factory fuse panel

I thought that you wanted a CLEAN install!?! A distribution block is a lot neater than soldering the leads together ..... also, I'd expect MacLeod to smack you with a safety rule for competition. Who knows how good your connections are inside the shrinkwrap? If you want to run a power lead for the accessories and HU, I'd suggest getting the battery terminal from the big 3 upgrade that is posted in DIY. That will give you a distribution block under the hood to make those connections neat. You'd still need a dist. block in the car to split up the smaller line. Also, if I were you, I'd get 1.5-2 Farads of capacitance on the 1/0 line to the amp which again points to a dist. block there. The neatest install is also the simplist which is to use the 1/0 for the 701.
 
  #18  
Old 10-26-2007, 09:07 AM
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Default RE: Tapping factory fuse panel

yeah i totally agree. i'm not trying to cut corners or anything like that, just trying to keep things very minimal. to me, it's a bit of overkill to run a distro block to power the two small accessories. Even if I did that, it's going to look odd soldering an 8 gauge wire to a single 18 gauge power lead. I just wish there was a safe way to use the existing fuse blocks in the car for the 701 and changer.

I'm using a streetwires battery terminal. It has the hookups for everything I need on it.

I know how to correctly do everything with a distro block, I'm just trying to avoid that. I'll just get a smaller fuse block for the accessories.
 
  #19  
Old 10-28-2007, 12:52 PM
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Default RE: Tapping factory fuse panel

http://www.autotoys.com/x/catalog/FU...GE_p_2095.html didnt see that there was a main thread, but that distro is awesome ^_^
 
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