i just need better looking sub grills. however, they do meet the main goal of protecting the sub with a fully loaded trunk.

for many more build pics (hundreds), check out my build log (link in sig). it includes several other configurations including this simple method of locating the amp and eq on a board located behind the rear seat. this keeps the amp safe from damage in the trunk while keeping the trunk space for a standard sub box.

 

OK, not to resurrect an old thread, but I'm having an issue with my newly installed system in my 94 wagon.

I installed the head unit today using a worthless Scoshe dash kit. Anyway, after some modifying and welding I was able to keep my factory pocket under my new head unit. While installing the HU, I also ran my power cables, RCA's, and remote wires so I could throw an old sub box and amp in.

Well, I have it all hooked up, and I can't seem to get any power in my amplifier, I even tried another one, and same results.

I know I had my remote wire jacked up because i split the power antennae lead to also use for the amp remote.... bad idea. It caused the antennae to turn on/off at will. Next step was to just find a switched power source. I did that, and still nothing.

I then thought it must be a faulty ground or loop. I unbolted the ground from under the hatch and re-sanded the metal to get an even shinier surface of bare metal.....

Still no luck.

So, I'm hoping that Keep_hope_alive might have a good answer for me on this one. I'm stuck.

BTW - I've installed numerous systems over the last 20yrs, but this one has me scratching my head......

 

you need to start with a DMM and measure voltage. if you have 12V on the battery and remote, and a ground, the amp will turn on. the DMM will clue you into the problem.

on the head unit, use the blue/white wire. the blue wire is power antenna. the blue/white is amp turn-on.

 

That's the bizarre part. I was able to get power on the remote wire, battery and the ground was only 2ft away.

I almost felt like there was a "loop" somehow. I have been extremely busy, but hope to get back on it this weekend.

 

try using a wire jumper from batt to remote at the amp.
disconnect RCA's and speaker wire from the amp when testing

 

Well, I figured it out tonight. My brand new 60amp Fuse at the battery for some reason would not make good contact, and I wasn't getting enough juice at the amp. I switched to an older one that I had and presto! It all worked just fine.

Now I'm bumpin' again.