replace rear crankshaft seal
#1
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replace rear crankshaft seal
Hi: Just found this site. At last, a group on Honda "friends". We have been driving only Honda's since 1991 and now have 5 in the extended family - son in law too. Sold one to my nephew 1992 4dr LX with 225K miles and still going at 275K with original clutch.
My 1997 LX wagon has 186K miles and has started to leak at the rear crankshaft seal. I am pretty sure it has the F22B 2.2L engine. Is this a hassle to replace (by my mechanic)? What are the odds that the shaft is worn and a new seal won't seal
My 1997 LX wagon has 186K miles and has started to leak at the rear crankshaft seal. I am pretty sure it has the F22B 2.2L engine. Is this a hassle to replace (by my mechanic)? What are the odds that the shaft is worn and a new seal won't seal
#2
My mother has a 97 VTi (NZ new, F22 VTEC) with the same problem.
It's about a days labour to replace it. G'box has to come out and the flywheel or torque converter and drive plate, if its an Auto, have to come off.
The seal is press fit into a cover plate that goes over the end of the crank.
There is no chance the crank could be worn at the point it passes through the seal. You may also have to remove the sump to access it.
Your looking at about a days labour, plus fluids etc.
It's about a days labour to replace it. G'box has to come out and the flywheel or torque converter and drive plate, if its an Auto, have to come off.
The seal is press fit into a cover plate that goes over the end of the crank.
There is no chance the crank could be worn at the point it passes through the seal. You may also have to remove the sump to access it.
Your looking at about a days labour, plus fluids etc.
#4
Unregistered
Posts: n/a
My mother has a 97 VTi (NZ new, F22 VTEC) with the same problem.
It's about a days labour to replace it. G'box has to come out and the flywheel or torque converter and drive plate, if its an Auto, have to come off.
The seal is press fit into a cover plate that goes over the end of the crank.
There is no chance the crank could be worn at the point it passes through the seal. You may also have to remove the sump to access it.
Your looking at about a days labour, plus fluids etc.
It's about a days labour to replace it. G'box has to come out and the flywheel or torque converter and drive plate, if its an Auto, have to come off.
The seal is press fit into a cover plate that goes over the end of the crank.
There is no chance the crank could be worn at the point it passes through the seal. You may also have to remove the sump to access it.
Your looking at about a days labour, plus fluids etc.
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