'00 F23A1 VTEC timing belt
#1
'00 F23A1 VTEC timing belt
at 136K miles, I have no proof that the belt was ever changed on this new-to-me car.
At that mileage, should I be changing the various oil seals while im in there?
what else should be changed, water pump and idler pulleys?
Is there any kind of all-telling visual check that can be done to see if the belt is ok, or just change it
Any tech documents available, thinking of doing it myself, Im more than capable, just a little freaked out by this job since its so critical!?
At that mileage, should I be changing the various oil seals while im in there?
what else should be changed, water pump and idler pulleys?
Is there any kind of all-telling visual check that can be done to see if the belt is ok, or just change it
Any tech documents available, thinking of doing it myself, Im more than capable, just a little freaked out by this job since its so critical!?
#2
I would definitely do it if there is no proof. Because it should be about ready for its 3rd belt if the first one was done at the recommended time anyways.
You can look at the belt, normally if you can still read the writing on the belt its fairly new, but not always true. It is just a good idea to replace it since you do not know.
I would change the water pump for sure, pulleys aren't a terrible idea but not 100% necessary.
As far as oil seals a new valve cover gasket is probably in order.
A shop manual will give you step by steps and if you search f23 timing belt on google i'm sure you can find a do it yourself guide. It really isn't that hard, its even easier when its out of the engine, but as you said if you do it wrong you can be in for big trouble.
You can look at the belt, normally if you can still read the writing on the belt its fairly new, but not always true. It is just a good idea to replace it since you do not know.
I would change the water pump for sure, pulleys aren't a terrible idea but not 100% necessary.
As far as oil seals a new valve cover gasket is probably in order.
A shop manual will give you step by steps and if you search f23 timing belt on google i'm sure you can find a do it yourself guide. It really isn't that hard, its even easier when its out of the engine, but as you said if you do it wrong you can be in for big trouble.
#3
On the subject of oil seals, the valve cover gasket is fine, I was referring to the seals on the side of the engine that are right there where you are working to change the timing belt/water pump?
I have known of and heard of not changing them "while you're in there" doing the belt & water pump, and then having to do a lot of the same time/labour/procedure to get back in there and change them, when doing it all at once would have been easier/cheaper?
I have known of and heard of not changing them "while you're in there" doing the belt & water pump, and then having to do a lot of the same time/labour/procedure to get back in there and change them, when doing it all at once would have been easier/cheaper?
#4
There is no sure fire way to know if your TB is recently replaced or 13+ yrs old. All the belts I've replaced (5-6 vehicles) looked basically new w/ no evidence of damage. Oldest I have replaced had over 100K miles.
Water pump should be replaced as it is not usually good for 2 TB intervals, and you may be > 1 interval now.
The tensioner pulleys are relatively inexpensive and should be replaced w/ TB. No right or wrong here, just opinion. Bearings only wear when grease dries out. I examined a couple of older bearings close to 200K miles and found grease almost dry so I've become an advocate of replacing them.
Seals have two schools of thought. Replace them while doing the job or leave them (they are not maintenance items) unless they show evidence of leakage. I'm in the later school as it is easy to damage the seal or sealing surfaces and create a problem where none previously existed.
One exception is the rear balance shaft cover seal (oring). It hardens w/ age and begins to leak at some point on most Accords.
Get a Honda Shop Manual. Check ebay, automanualsource.com, or helminc.com. This is cheap insurance.
If you've never done a Honda TB, the harmonic balancer/crankshaft pulley retaining bolt can be a challenge. You will need 1) a powerful 500+ ft-lbs impact wrench, or 2) honda restraint tool, 2 good 1/2" breaker bars, and 2-4 ft long cheater pipe to break the bolt loose. Socket is a 19mm deep socket. Check ericthecarguy and briansmobile1 videos on youtube for tips on breaking the bolt.
good luck
Water pump should be replaced as it is not usually good for 2 TB intervals, and you may be > 1 interval now.
The tensioner pulleys are relatively inexpensive and should be replaced w/ TB. No right or wrong here, just opinion. Bearings only wear when grease dries out. I examined a couple of older bearings close to 200K miles and found grease almost dry so I've become an advocate of replacing them.
Seals have two schools of thought. Replace them while doing the job or leave them (they are not maintenance items) unless they show evidence of leakage. I'm in the later school as it is easy to damage the seal or sealing surfaces and create a problem where none previously existed.
One exception is the rear balance shaft cover seal (oring). It hardens w/ age and begins to leak at some point on most Accords.
Get a Honda Shop Manual. Check ebay, automanualsource.com, or helminc.com. This is cheap insurance.
If you've never done a Honda TB, the harmonic balancer/crankshaft pulley retaining bolt can be a challenge. You will need 1) a powerful 500+ ft-lbs impact wrench, or 2) honda restraint tool, 2 good 1/2" breaker bars, and 2-4 ft long cheater pipe to break the bolt loose. Socket is a 19mm deep socket. Check ericthecarguy and briansmobile1 videos on youtube for tips on breaking the bolt.
good luck
#5
I have heard of some mechanics removing the rubber grommet on the timing belt cover after completing the job as an indication. Still you dont know for sure.
Factory service manual calls for timing belt around 110k miles so you arent too late.
I am in the school of not touching the damn oil seals unless they are leaking. Honda did the job for me the first time and changed the seals, car leaked oil. They never got it right, I took it back to them 5 times. I did the job this last time and I couldnt get the cam shaft oil seal to seat right. The oil seals are a pain, so dont touch them unless you know they are leaking.
Factory service manual calls for timing belt around 110k miles so you arent too late.
I am in the school of not touching the damn oil seals unless they are leaking. Honda did the job for me the first time and changed the seals, car leaked oil. They never got it right, I took it back to them 5 times. I did the job this last time and I couldnt get the cam shaft oil seal to seat right. The oil seals are a pain, so dont touch them unless you know they are leaking.
Last edited by jwolfe106; 02-21-2013 at 01:21 PM.
#6
110k miles or 7 years.
Maybe if you're lucky the belt will say something like Gates or some brand other than Honda. Then you'll know it was changed once. Otherwise, I wouldn't go by the condition of the belt.
Maybe if you're lucky the belt will say something like Gates or some brand other than Honda. Then you'll know it was changed once. Otherwise, I wouldn't go by the condition of the belt.
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