One bad diode in the rectifier bridge will cause a couple things...

- reduced charging capacity = lights dim when operating too many things together
- rough, noisy (not smooth) generation of electricity = interference with electronics

Sounds like a bad diode in the rectifier continues to be a good suspect. Find someplace that can properly test the alternator under load.

 

Ok so i called one of our better local mechanic shops and asked about testing the alt. They said they would run the same test that kragens does for free so i might as well take it there.

Is a kragens test gonna tell me enough or no? I mean the alt still charges the battery. I thought the kragens test really just tells u its fine or no its totally shot. Anyone?

 

Auto parts stores should be able to tell if the alternator is capable of putting full amperage and whether it may have a failed rectifier or weak brushes.

good luck

 

If you're lucky, Kragens uses a scope to look at the wave-form coming out of the alternator. Even if not a scope, they'll actually measure the amperage, not just "turn on all the lights & motors".

So it's a free test. You already got enough reason to suspect that it MIGHT be the alternator.

 

Sounds like they're being honest & not just taking your money for something that you can get for free.

 

Alright thanks u guys. Ill be takin the alt out and to kragens this sat. Ill make sure i come back and post the findings.

 

Gotta take it out or can they test it in the car? (Phone call to Kragens?)

 

Well i think its fixed. Took the alt out of the car and had kragens test it for me. It failed. Apparently it was over charging which was a new one for me. He showed me the amperage specs and it was over by a little bit but i guess it was enough. The odd sound that was comin from the engine is gone too. Thanks again to everyone for the help.