1990 Accord Idle/Code 43
#1
1990 Accord Idle/Code 43
Welcome to forum.
I've had a '93 and now a '92, both 5 spds; both of them do the rpm oscillation during warm up if I touched the gas pedal, but not otherwise. The oscillation lasts about a minute, is clearly engine temperature related, and goes away as car warms up. So I let the car idle for several minutes without touching gas pedal = no rpm oscillation.
I've had a '93 and now a '92, both 5 spds; both of them do the rpm oscillation during warm up if I touched the gas pedal, but not otherwise. The oscillation lasts about a minute, is clearly engine temperature related, and goes away as car warms up. So I let the car idle for several minutes without touching gas pedal = no rpm oscillation.
#2
I moved your post to a new thread. Having 2 problems on one thread makes reading confusing.
Look closely at your tachometer. The first mark past zero is 500 rpm and not 250 rpm. Honda skipped the 250 rpm mark. Please let us know the correct rpm for the idle.
Do you only have the problem when you put the car in gear and the engine is warm?
Look closely at your tachometer. The first mark past zero is 500 rpm and not 250 rpm. Honda skipped the 250 rpm mark. Please let us know the correct rpm for the idle.
Do you only have the problem when you put the car in gear and the engine is warm?
#4
i have a problem similar maybe you guys can help me with.... got a 92 accord 5sp. cranks and drives fine all power is there but when i engage clutch to slow down it stalls out and oil light flashes sometimes.... just put a new oil pump on with new head ( broke the camshaft)....only difference is i put a 94 head gasket on....also my top radiator hose it extremely tight after running a while i took the thermostat out and still doing it... wondering what could be the issue? Any ideas? Thanks Matt
#5
Your '92 is EX, LX, sedan, coupe, or what?
Also the '94 head gasket is for EX, LX, or what?
Just to check whether the gasket is different... I don't know if they changed any of the cooling system passageways.
Then check something for us:
Engine warmed up & idling, transmission in neutral, clutch engaged (that means you're not pressing the clutch pedal).
AC turned off, other loads turned off.
Is the idle stable & good? Around 750rpm?
Then don't touch anything else, but just disengage the clutch by pressing down the pedal.
Does that stall it? Or seriously disturb the idle?
This is to rule out problems with thrust bearings on the crankshaft.
Also the '94 head gasket is for EX, LX, or what?
Just to check whether the gasket is different... I don't know if they changed any of the cooling system passageways.
Then check something for us:
Engine warmed up & idling, transmission in neutral, clutch engaged (that means you're not pressing the clutch pedal).
AC turned off, other loads turned off.
Is the idle stable & good? Around 750rpm?
Then don't touch anything else, but just disengage the clutch by pressing down the pedal.
Does that stall it? Or seriously disturb the idle?
This is to rule out problems with thrust bearings on the crankshaft.
#6
Did what you said and no problems with thrust bearings, idles around 750 when hot, and doesnt mess with idle when disengaging clutch...i bled cooling system and got alot of bubbles out so i think the pressure on hose is almost gone, besides normal pressure. Rechecked everything but still cant figure out why wants to stall/cut off and oil light flashes... think it could be something with intake starving engine of oxygen and fuel not combusting like it should when not on gas pedal? Ideas?
#8
Hondas are known for the idle control system getting messed up from air in the cooling system. They also don't play well with idle adjustments that aren't in line with the procedure from the shop manual.
Coolant has to flow through the IACV and the FITV. Air pockets or crud in those little coolant hoses for those components can confuse the control system. There's also a procedure for setting the "base" idle (and forcing the ECM to re-learn) which I wrote a post in the DIY section.
Air pockets will hang out at the thermostat housing which can also cause the T-stat to stay closed too long.
About the head gasket, I was concerned about VTEC vs non-VTEC gaskets. Also uncertain whether any water passageways may be different between the 2 years; but air in the Tstat housing can explain a lot of your problems. Lets see what happens now.
Coolant has to flow through the IACV and the FITV. Air pockets or crud in those little coolant hoses for those components can confuse the control system. There's also a procedure for setting the "base" idle (and forcing the ECM to re-learn) which I wrote a post in the DIY section.
Air pockets will hang out at the thermostat housing which can also cause the T-stat to stay closed too long.
About the head gasket, I was concerned about VTEC vs non-VTEC gaskets. Also uncertain whether any water passageways may be different between the 2 years; but air in the Tstat housing can explain a lot of your problems. Lets see what happens now.
#9
i bled the cooling system through the bleeder screw located on t-stat housing lots of bubbles, thanks. radiator hose not like trying to squeeze a aluminum baseball bat anymore but the stalling out, oil light flickering on off at times is still there??? im not leaking any fluids, oil still good, waters good, plenty of fuel, new plugs, new head, new belts, new gaskets, (except intake gasket). Ideas?
#10
Try this stuff:
https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...e-speed-38734/
I think you've already covered a lot of the things in there, but just so you know all the things that can mess up the idle control.
https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...e-speed-38734/
I think you've already covered a lot of the things in there, but just so you know all the things that can mess up the idle control.
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07-25-2012 07:15 PM