I experienced something similar with my ‘94. Are you having any other issues besides it dying? Two weeks ago I knew next to nothing aside from how to change oil and spark plugs, but I have come a long way in a short time, by necessity. Mine ended up being the ECU, which cost me $25 to replace. I spent more time and money than I should have trying other things. So, in case your issue is similar to mine, here are a few things to check:

(I’m listing this one first because you can literally test it without even popping the hood. For me it was a test that would have saved me lots of time and money, had I done this first)
1. When you turn the ignition on (not cranking, just on), do you hear the fuel pump engage for two seconds then shut off? When you turn the ignition switch on, the main relay that controls the fuel pump (and several other things) will be grounded by the ECU for two seconds, then the connection to ground is opened until cranking. If imthis doesn’t happen, check the main relays. Granted, it’s called the main relay, but it actually has two separate relays inside. If you can remove the grey housing (you may have to remove the relay, then remove the housing and reinstall the relay without it) and turn the switch on while pressing a finger to the side of each relay, you should be able to hear a click and feel it in both relays. If not, you may have a grounding issue with the ECU. However, just because the pump turns on, doesn’t mean it’s not the ECU, but the two circuits inside the unit share a common positive solder trace that spans several capacitors that can go bad.

2. When it comes to checking spark, I found it easiest to start at the coil and work my way to the end. You can use several methods to do this, but be safe. After the coil, check the coil wire where it connects to the distributor. Then check the distributor connections that go to the plugs, followed by the plug wire boots and the plugs. If at any stage you lost spark (or voltage if you’re using a meter), you’ve found your area of focus.

3. If you lose spark at the distributor, check the contacts inside the cap for wear and corrosion, as well as the rotor contact. If neccessary, clean them and use a #2 pencil to color in the contact surfaces. This can improve the conductivity of the connections. If all is well with the contacts, you may have a bad ignition control module. They’re not expensive if you can find one at a local junkyard. I got one for about $5.

This is based on my experience, so I’m not saying this from a position of authority. If I am incorrect on any of this, hopefully someone will correct me and I can learn something new as well. I hope you get it figured out soon!

Maybe I’m wrong about this, but mine was the A00 model (A50 if you have automatic), which was replaced with the A01 (or A51 respectively), and ifnyours is similar, it may save you some future problems if you can find a good replacement for cheap. If it’s that old and you haven’t had any capacitors blow, you’re probably not far from it. From what I’ve read, those electrolytic capacitors tend to go fairly easily. I guess a lot of it depends on the previous owners care of the car

I started having this problem again yesterday after a few days of running smoothly with the new ECU, so I pulled the distributor out, cleaned the hell out of it and replaced the ignition control module ($5 at the junkyard). Then I cleaned the throttle body just for good measure to make sure I didn't have any air problems. So far it hasn't happened again today. Will see at the end of the day when it's time to go home though. Yesterday it took me over an hour to get it to run without dying almost immediately, so I was stuck in the parking lot at a jobsite. I'm REALLY tired of this 😂