Hello All,


Hoping i can get some help, My accord's brake lights do not engage and brighten up, when brake pedal is pressed, everything works fine in the vehicle, no electrical issues i've come by, my signals and headlights work, tail lights work as running lights, dash lights work, the wholes 9 yards, i just can't seem to have my brake lights engage. i tried swapping my brake switch and that did not help. any idea what this can be guys? any tips? THanks!




1993 Accord 10th Anniversary 2.2L 4Dr

 

1. Is under-hood fuse 25 (20A) okay? If the horns work, the fuse is okay.

2. Do you have a voltmeter to test wiring?

 

Hello Sir!,

Yes my horn does work, fuse is ok since it's getting power. no i don't unfortunately =(

I think that's what i'll need. is there any other way to test ?

From what i understand on this vehicle, the brake lights stay "hot" and only thing to get them light in "bright mode" is for the brake switch to provide a ground to complete the circuit making the light bright?

Thanks for your help!

 

A voltmeter is the most efficient method to narrow down the area(s) of the problem. There are various areas to test.

No, the brake lights do not stay "hot" and the brake switch does not provide the ground.

The brake switch allows power (+) coming from Fuse 25 to feed, through the respective left and right brake light failure sensors, to the respective brake light bulb sockets. The ground is via wiring connected to a ground bolt in the left rear of the car.

 

thanks again for the reply,

Oh so i understand, well i'm sure it can't be my brake switch or my car wouldn't shift out of park, i have checked out my trunk fully, all wiring looks solid, i guess i'll need to take a look with a voltmeter to find out what the cause is.

very strange, i did also physically inspect the two failure sensors and both looked in good shape with no corrosion of any sort, very clean looking. i'm starting to feel it may be those sensors though. do both have to do with rear lights? or only driver's side?

Thanks for your reply!

 

The brake light failure sensors can be the source of the problem. The left sensor is for the left outer and inner brake lights, while the right sensor is for the right outer and inner brake lights.

Essentially, the testing is the following. You would use a voltmeter and possibly a T-pin to backprobe. Backprobing is either using a backprobe set or using a thin needle or something and making contact with the metal terminal of the connector without piercing the wire in the back of the still connected connector. Care must be taken to ensure that the wiring does not get damaged. You can use something like a T pin, available at Walmart, etc., and backprobe. These pictures are just to give a picture of the concept of backprobing without piercing any wires.

https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/foru...%5D-t-pins-jpg

https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/foru...back-probe-jpg

Note: You don't have to start at step 1, you can start bypass step #1 and 2, and start at step #3. However, if you have no power at step #3, then start at step #1.

1. At the 2P connector for the brake switch, touch the voltmeter's black lead to body ground, with the voltmeter's red lead backprobe the WHT/YEL wire. There should be battery power/voltage. WHT/YEL is a wire with white color insulation and a yellow stripe running through it.

2. If you do get power at the WHT/YEL wire at the brake switch; then with the brake pedal depressed, verify power at the GRN/WHT wire which goes to the brake lights. This is done at the brake switch 2P connector by backprobing the GRN/WHT wire with the voltmeter's red lead, and voltmeter's black lead to body ground.

3. If there is power at the GRN/WHT wire at the brake switch, then brake switch is functionally properly. If still no brake lights, then check for power at brake light failure sensors, located in the trunk area.

Check for power at the GRN/WHT wires for both respective brake light failure sensors with the brake pedal depressed. If there is power at the GRN/WHT wires; but, no power at the bulb connectors, then one or more of the failure sensors may be faulty.

4. If there is power at the bulb sockets; but, they still don't work, then the ground wiring/connection may be an issue.

 

Hello Redbull

Thank you for you Reply,

I'll give this a shot, and see what i get, going to bug one of my friends for a voltmeter, hope i get an answer it's scary driving to work with no brake lights i pray everyday i don't get rear ended.

can i possibly bypass these sensors in the meantime? or will this cause fuses to blow?

Thanks a bunch!