1995 accord A/C problem
#1
1995 accord A/C problem
Hello! My A/C clutch nor my A/C fan are engaging when I push the button. A light comes on on the dash, and the system is fully charged. If I jump the relays to either one, that ONE (meaning the clutch relay or the fan relay) will turn on (Not both at the same time). Could it be the hi/lo pressure switch? Any other ideas? Thanks!
#2
Is "AC fan" one or both of the cooling fans (radiator and condensor fans) or heater/AC blower?
There is no relay to the heater/AC blower, but there are relays to the cooling fans.
An faulty AC switch (even if indicator light comes on) or blower control switch could disable AC system.
good luck
There is no relay to the heater/AC blower, but there are relays to the cooling fans.
An faulty AC switch (even if indicator light comes on) or blower control switch could disable AC system.
good luck
#4
What TH meant was when you turn on the a/c with the engine running, both fans bolted to the radiator should turn on. Does either one, or neither turn on. The names a/c fan and radiator fan doesn't mean that one turns on for the a/c and the other one for coolant. They both should turn on for either a/c or the coolant when the engine is running.
How did you verify the a/c is charged?
Do you have a volt meter and know how to test for 12V and continuity to ground?
How did you verify the a/c is charged?
Do you have a volt meter and know how to test for 12V and continuity to ground?
#5
The radiator fan turns on once the engine gets to a certain temp. The A/C fan never comes on. I will take a look and see if hitting the A/C switch on the dash will turn the radiator fan on. If it doesn't, shouldn't that mean the dash switch is bad?
I bought R-134a with a connector from Autozone - it is right in the middle of the "Charged" zone. I had to jump the clutch relay to get it to charge.
I tested it and am getting 12V to both of the relays (one is for fan, the other for A/C clutch).
I appreciate the help!
I bought R-134a with a connector from Autozone - it is right in the middle of the "Charged" zone. I had to jump the clutch relay to get it to charge.
I tested it and am getting 12V to both of the relays (one is for fan, the other for A/C clutch).
I appreciate the help!
#6
The radiator and condensor cooling fans should both run w/ AC, and w/o AC both should come on when ~ 195F temp is reached.
The non-working condensor fan is not preventing AC compressor from engaging. Likely failed condensor fan motor.
The AC compressor is enabled by the ECU when a ground signal is received through blower switch -AC switch -AC thermostat - hi/lo pressure shut-off switch. The 12V at the cooling fans and compressor relays is always there when keyswitch is On. What's missing is ground signal from ECU to close the relays, or ECU is enabling compressor and compressor coil is not closing (clutch gap too large or clutch coil open).
Suggest removing the connector to the hi/lo pressure switch and checking for ground on Blu/Yel wire w/ keyswitch On. If ground is present, then blower switch, thermostat, and AC switch are good. If no ground present, then one of those is open. Also, hi/lo pressure switch should show continuity (dead short) across two pins of the switch (not conector). This would confirm hi/lo pressure switch is good.
Try above and report what you find.
good luck
The non-working condensor fan is not preventing AC compressor from engaging. Likely failed condensor fan motor.
The AC compressor is enabled by the ECU when a ground signal is received through blower switch -AC switch -AC thermostat - hi/lo pressure shut-off switch. The 12V at the cooling fans and compressor relays is always there when keyswitch is On. What's missing is ground signal from ECU to close the relays, or ECU is enabling compressor and compressor coil is not closing (clutch gap too large or clutch coil open).
Suggest removing the connector to the hi/lo pressure switch and checking for ground on Blu/Yel wire w/ keyswitch On. If ground is present, then blower switch, thermostat, and AC switch are good. If no ground present, then one of those is open. Also, hi/lo pressure switch should show continuity (dead short) across two pins of the switch (not conector). This would confirm hi/lo pressure switch is good.
Try above and report what you find.
good luck
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post