Been trying to figure this out for a couple days now, found a couple similar threads but weren't any help so far.
This cars been sitting for about 6 months after suddenly dying, I've read in a lot of places about the main fuel relay but i re-soldered it and then replaced it and no change.
i have fuel to the rail and fuel filter at about 60 psi
cylinder compression is good
no check engine light or codes or even stored codes
i have spark when i pull the plugs out, but when i tried starter fluid (I know, bad idea) there was no change so i checked the engine ground and its good. dont have a multimeter but i checked the ignition coil with a light and it was good igniter had power as well. the points look good on the distributor cap but im about to replace that and the rotor.
thats as far as ive gotten, has anyone had similar problems or any suggestions for what to check next? id rather not keep throwing new parts on.. but im kinda of in a tricky situation with limited tools.
thanks for any help

 

Have someone else try to start the car, then using the end of a solid stick, hit the starter case multiple times while the car is being started. If it starts, then it may be due to the starter.

 

maybe pull a plug, see if it's drenched in oil. Or pull the tb cover and check basic timing

 

First we need to understand which kind of non-start problem you have.

Sounds to me like your starter works, and spins the engine. It just won't start.

Redbull's test is good for when the starter doesn't work.

The other things like main-relay & oil-soaked plugs are for when the starter works but the engine doesn't start.

 

i realized i was not very specific.. i also havent been able to spend much time on this but this is where i am so far:
i have spark
cylinder compression is at 120 and all cylinders except #5 its about 90. the manual says a min of 142.. are those low enough to cause the engine to not start?
fuel was coming through the filter at about 60 psi and getting to the fuel rail.
the icm had battery voltage in and out and the coil is new along with the dist. cap and plugs+wire
the timing is good also
when i turn the key to position 2 and leave it for about a min i can get the engine to start for a few seconds but then it immediately dies.
the only code i got was a bad o2 sensor
any help is appreciated

 

If you can get it to start again try wiggling the key when it starts to die and see if you can keep it running. I am wondering if you have a failing/failed electrical portion of the ignition switch which sometime wiggling the key will help to figure out if that is it. The fact that the engine compressions are off should not stop it from running, it should only make it run rough in most circumstances. You state you have fuel and spark, thus the one common issue with the older accords is the ignition switch. If it looses contact while running then power is lost to the engine and engine dies. Please note that this is not the key cylinder that causes the potential problem you describe. Good luck.

 

The proper way to do a compression test is to unplug the distributor and pull the fuel pump fuse. Floor the gas pedal when cranking the engine, so it can pull & compress the most air possible.

You should check for engine codes. If you have an OBD2 reader, the connector is behind the ash tray. If not, then you can check the OBD1 way. See the common diy thread on top of the gen tech help forum on checking codes.