The yellow wire will get power from the distributor coil, so you would have to back-probe with the coil plugged in.

 

Same back-probe for the green wire at the distributor.

 

ok so with the plug connected at the coil. I probed the yellow wire and the l green wire at the plug and got 12v at both wires

 

So your coil is getting power, so it is intact. On the distributor connector, the yel/grn wire should switch from open to ground when trying to crank the engine. This is the signal from the PCM to the ICM to fire the coil. Backprobing with the power probe should cause the light to flicker. The yellow wire at the coil should also switch from power to ground.

You should also try to test for spark at the coil. You can also hand crank the engine and watch the rotor to ensure the distributor is spinning with the engine.

I'm essentially going through the steps on this video.

 

the rotor does indeed turn. That’s the first thing i checked. To make sure the timing belt didn’t snap. I will test the yellow and green wire later today when I get home from work

 

Ok so bear with me I believe I did these tests correctly. My power probe is different than his. I have a digital one. Anyways. The yellow wire at the coil with key on 12 volts with red light. Crank the car red light on power probe turns off. Yellow and green wire at distributor connector. Probe with key in 0’voltage. Crank the car nothing. When I pushed the + on the probe there was a point where i did get the red light to flash some but it didn’t seem consistent and then I also had some times when it didn’t flash. Again not sure if i did that part correctly or not

 

Your power probe may not be fast enough to measure the switching voltage/ground, or you don't have a good back-probe into the connector for testing. I've had the most success with a thin piece of metal from a wire testing hook bent straight. There are piercing tools that tap directly into the wire.

If you power probe can be set to read power/ground and not supply power/ground, then this is the safer test.

How I'm reading the wiring diagram is

1. The yellow wire should have 12V the whole time.
2. The green wire should flicker with ground. It may be a better test vs the yel/grn wire.

Try retesting this way. If you have the old ignitor (aka ICM), try installing and see if you get the same results.
I don't want to have you waste money on a new part and not have it fix the issue if the testing doesn't confirm the issue.