1998 4cyl 4 door - Proper front/flex pipe
#21
I hate when folks ask questions on forums then do not come back with results/updates
I decided to take it to a local shop and had them just cut out the flex section and replace with a universal flex section. Approx $150. 1 Hour to do. ....But, still had some exhaust leak noise. They found another leak. They removed the heat shield and noticed a small area of carbon build up coming from the exhaust manifold gasket.
I got home and started taking a closer look. Two of the manifold to block studs are broken! I ordered the gasket from rockauto and what I thought were the right studs/nuts. Nope.
Quest continues. (Trying to eventually rid this P0420. Hopefully not the CAT. I need to get rid of these exhaust leaks first)
#23
My old pipe had been welded on too many times, which is why I replaced the head pipe (someone had even welded the replacement cat to it). I ended up replacing the entire exhaust from the manifold back. I bolted on a Magnaflow cat, and a stainless steel Magnaflow cat back exhaust. Love the sound of the car, and living in the salt belt, the exhaust should last a little longer.
#24
Pipe wrench:
What year/model/engine is yours? I'm pretty sure that all 3 of the engines available on the 1998 USA Accord 4-door had the primary O2 sensor located in the exhaust manifold. Not in the A-pipe. So none of the A-pipes should have a bung for the sensor.
The ULEV engine has a different exhaust manifold, and the sensor itself is very different. But the sensor is still located in the manifold.
What year/model/engine is yours? I'm pretty sure that all 3 of the engines available on the 1998 USA Accord 4-door had the primary O2 sensor located in the exhaust manifold. Not in the A-pipe. So none of the A-pipes should have a bung for the sensor.
The ULEV engine has a different exhaust manifold, and the sensor itself is very different. But the sensor is still located in the manifold.
#27
Yours is probably just a regular "49 state" LEV car/engine. It should have a single outlet manifold, and use a flat gasket with 3 bolt holes in it. Look on e-bay for one, as that's what I did. In fact the last time I looked, the guy I got mine from was still selling them for 75 bucks.
#29
Conceptually it's very easy to replace. Unplug the wire, unscrew the sensor.
In real life, it's usually stuck from heat & corrosion, so it's difficult to get it loose. PB Blaster or Kroil or something like that to soak for hours, then smooth torque with a long-handle wrench. Special "sensor-socket" helps because you can feed the wire through the socket.
In real life, it's usually stuck from heat & corrosion, so it's difficult to get it loose. PB Blaster or Kroil or something like that to soak for hours, then smooth torque with a long-handle wrench. Special "sensor-socket" helps because you can feed the wire through the socket.
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