Hello fellow Accord owners!

I'm new to the Accord forums, but have been posting on Regalgs and ClubGP for many years (I know ew, a GM guy).

I am relatively well versed in mechanical work, and less talented with under-dash clusterF***s. Not only am I lacking the necessary diagnostic tools, but I am working with basic hand tools and 10 years of basic knowledge.

I am currently repairing my daily driver, a 260k 1998 EX coupe with a 4cyl AT that has had a "Ultra" brand- remote start/alarm installed. (Bought the car this way)

The issue I am facing is a repetitive stalling whilst driving or a no start while parked. ( Especially when attempting to start shortly thereafter)... I noticed it was typically after engine had reached normal operating temp. Intially I thought it was the Distributor so I have installed a low mileage OEM one recently. Then I remembered the recall on these cars for the ignition switch (of which i'm not sure that my car recieved). The reason I assumed it was IG-Swtch related was when I poked at the black cover for the IG-Swtch my dash lights would dim from time to time. The only time I could get my car to turn over was when the SES light would eventually pop on and I could see the GREEN Key symbol appear simultaneously. Sometimes I would key on and neither of these lights would appear till I had the key in the igniton for several minutes or if I removed the key and switched it on and off until I heard a Solenoid click and occasionally when I wiggled the key. Figured it had to be a bad connection/solder somewhere near column/dash. This is where it gets ugly.

(NOTE: car has- new alt, new battery, starter, distributor, wires, plugs, AEM filter, Radiator/cap)

When I removed the dash panels under the steering column I was shocked to see a bundle of wires haphazardly wrapped and tucked. I proceeded to cut the tape holding the ignition switch 'pigtail' to the rest of the wirecluster/loom so I could isolate it for removal. Upon doing so, I discovered 4 wires spliced with shrink tubing into the the middle of the existing 'pigtail' portion of the ignition switch, about midway through the section of wire(s). I followed the leads back to a black box, one of which says BYPASSKIT Honda/Acura transponder interface/ 4-wire connector. The other only lists serial numbers and says "Auto-Trans Only".

As of now the car still starts and drives intermitently. Should I splice the mystery 4 wires like I saw on the old IG- Swtch into the 'new' IG-Swtch that I purchased?

I'd like to remove/ bypass the non-functioning remote start and correspondng boxes if possible. But only if you guys think that the ignition switch is the source of my problems. I instantly assume(d) its part of my remote-start/ security system but if it serves another purpose please enlighten me...

Whats my next step?!

Once I figure out how, I can post pics.

TIA

-Casey

 

Welcome to HAF.

I'm the slow one here so you have to give me a bit.

So there is a new ign switch in the car - Yes, No ?

Next, testing sucks since you can only test when the car decides to act up

These do have a "main relay" that can decide to act up. Get into a habit of turning the key to "on"/pos II and listen for the fuel pump to prime....you might have to turn off anything that makes noise (blower motor, door shut, radio, ect) to hear it. When the key is first turned to "on"/pos II the MIL/CEL should come on for ~3 seconds, this is also when the fuel pump should prime, then go off...and so should the pump.

Next, this is a reach but I have seen it before, call the dealer and ask for the "e-brake over ride code" for the immobilzer, you'll need the VIN......some dealers won't give it over the phone so ypu might have to call a couple before they do.

You enter this code using the e-brakel....do an online search for the how to. I've seen a few times that the PCM and the key seem to "forget" each other and using the e-brake code brings them back together....yes strange but trust me I have seen this happen.

 

You need to figure out if the stalling is due to lack of spark or lack of fuel. Probably the easiest way to test for spark is to connect a timing light to the #1 spark plug wire. The timing light will flash will flash with good spark. You have to test when the car won't start.

We use different terms when describing starting the car. For me, turning the key to the start position makes the starter turn the engine. I release the key when the engine fires up (runs on its own). Is the no-start problem with the starter spinning the engine or the engine won't fire up?

The last part of this is the remote starter/alarm system. I suspect that the spliced wiring and black box (honda/acura transponder bypass) are part of this alarm system. Before you start messing with the wiring, find the installation manual for your alarm/remote start. Check out the installation instructions and/or the wiring diagram.

I am not a fan of aftermarket alarm systems. They can cause all kinds of strange problems. If this were my car, I'd consider removing it and returning all the wiring back to the stock setup. If I wanted a remote start, I would use a Honda unit (not sure if available on the 98).

One more thing, did you scan for any engine codes? Most parts stores do this as a free service.

 

No as of now I still have the Ig-swtch that was in the vehicle when I purchased it. I tried installing a new one (Duralast) and it wouldnt start at all.

With the 'stock' one (IG-swtch) it still starts especially on 'cold' starts. (when the engine/electronics are below normal/max safe op. temp -gauge less than half way)

It seems all the dash lights cue for ~3 sec on the times when the car decides to start. Have not yet strained my ear to hear for the fuel pump. It did appear I had an EVAP canister code ( when the car exhibits a SES light). Ill have to write down the specific one.

one of the relays under dash has been checked but please list the ones you are referring to so I can look at all possible culprits.

As far as the Ebrake code from the dealer, my Ebrake barely holds and has very little tension(donno if this is related). BRAKE light has been illuminated since I replaced all 4 brakes a few months ago (including both rear calipers)

This intermittent no start issue has been getting progressively worse over the past 4 months and is the most severe during hot and humid weather.

I do not have a diagram for the securirty/remote start system because it was on the car when I purchased it. I do however know the previous owner.

How hard can it be to look up what needs to be reversed so I can be back to stock?

Thanks for the welcome and the replies!

 

Again, trying to figure out an issue when everything is working is pretty hard....trust me I spent ~2 years trying to figure out an issue on one of mine.

Just my opinion but I'm with either the ing switch or the main relay....don't replace anything on a guess.

For the ign switch, you would only test/replace the electrical part of the switch. The key has a chip in it that "talks" to the PCM. Sounds like when you replaced it the one time you replaced the entire key switch....hence why the car would not start.

The main relay is "way up" in the dash to the left of the steering wheel. There are tests you can do to the relay as well.

But again, when everything is working....the tests are going to check out