When compressor siezes part of the aluminum shavings from the cylinders gets distributed into the AC system. This will contaminate the condensor, receiver/drier, and evaporator. In my experience, it is not possible to effectively flush these components completely of this debris. This means that a new compressor will swallow shavings from the previous. It only takes a tiny amount of debris to cause a problem. This debris will lead to the same problem you now have.

Here's what I would suggest. It sounds like a big job, but on Accords, it's relatively simple:

1) Replace compressor, condensor, receiver/drier, and evaporator w/ new or used (much more cost effective). Check car-part.com and ebay for used parts.

2) Flush remaining hoses and piping thoroughly w/ laquer thinner driven by compressed air. Blow thoroughly dry w/ more compressed air.

3) Assemble system w/ all new orings at ALL connections, including those on evaporator. Use Nylog oring lubricant to insure good connections. Don't depend on decade-old orings for seals! Note, some compressors will come w/ their own lubricant. Drain and install 1-2 oz of new PAG lubricant in compressor. Install remaining double-end capped PAG lubricant (5-6 oz) in condensor and receiver/drier as last assembly operation.

4) Vacuum dry system for 30mins and check whether vacuum is holding. If yes, continue vacuum drying for another 30 mins. If not, you will need to locate the leak and repair the connection.

5) Charge w/ specification amount (usually about 24 oz) of R134a.

If you're careful and patient, you should be able to purchase replacement parts for $200-$250 (used). Rebuilt will be more.

I've found that autoacforum.com and ackits.com are excellent resources for help and parts on AC repairs.

Done right you can enjoy cool air for years to come.

good luck

 

Do you have to remove the IACV and Throttle Plate to clean it? (I don't know much about cars, so I apologize if this sounds like a stupid question).

 

Perfectibilist - you should start a different thread, because threadjacking creates confusion for someone reading this post. We also don't know what car you are driving.

The throttle plate can be cleaned on the car. Just use a rag and an old toothbrush with some TB cleaner. You can access the other side by pushing on the spring mechanism. IACV usually has to be unbolted.

 

My current understanding is a siezed compressor was responsible for added load that was killing the engine.

If you're not ready for AC repair, suggest bypassing the AC compressor drive w/ a shorter belt (unless your model has a serpentine belt, not sure?). This will allow you to drive the car until you assemble all parts for AC repair.

good luck

 

I'm not trying to threadjack. I thought if I would've made a new thread, someone would've told me to search instead of asking.

At least that's how it works on nearly all other forums.

 

It may be (in this case) the compressor clutch will freewheel OK, so all he needs to do is disconnect the wire from the compressor. That will ensure the compressor clutch never tries to engage.

But it also sounds like the belt is at least partly burned up by now.

 

The car has 199K miles on it. I am trying to decide whether I should fix the AC or just drive it as is and unload it before summer comes. Never had any major issues with the car, so it would be tough getting rid of an accord that has potential to go another 100K.

 

An Accord w/ 199K is a "spring chicken" in my book. W/ care, another 100K or more is easiy possible.

Living w/o AC in Houston is not a viable option. I've had to endure just a few days w/o my AC and don't remember those times fondly.

If you DIY or if you pay for your work, you can save a bundle by purchasing your own parts (used). I would speculate that a good shop would do the work I described for 8-10 hrs labor ($500-$700). Parts should amount to < $250 w/ ease. If you DiY, this is a no-brainer. If you're paying for labor, more difficult choice, but a one time $1K is better than 5 yrs of car payments every day of the week.

good luck