MFR is a frequent cause of no-start. Listen carefully for fuel pump when keyswitch is turned to On, run for 2-3 secs, and go off. If you don't hear fuel pump, then MFR fault is likely, although a fault fuel pump is also possible.

See attached MFR troubleshooting procedure.

You should consider your own emanual. Check automanualsource.com for a $22 download manual.

good luck

 

Replaced the bad coils and still no luck, blowing the ign. Coil fuse still with key on. I can pull the fuel pump fuse and the coil fuse want blow. With the coil and fuel pump fuse in I can pull the ACGS fuse under hood and no fuse blows. I've got a replacement ECM coming. What's my procedure I keep reading about getting it reflashed? The " no data link" I keep getting with my code reader tells me problem is the ECM.

 

PCM has to be programmed to recognize the keys. My understanding is that a special tool is required. Most locksmiths and Honda have tool to reprogram PCM.

It is extremely unlikely that the PCM could cause fuse 9 to blow. PCM only supplies a ground signal to the COP to fire the coil. Also the fact that some of the COP's did not cause fuse to blow suggests a fault not in the PCM, but in wiring or COP's. Check that local ground for the COP's is not somehow connected to COP power supply.

Does ign coil fuse 11 (drivers side under dash fuse box) not blow when fuel pump fuse (fuse 1 under hood fuse box) is pulled? This would suggest a wiring fault.

good luck

 

With coil fuse 11 in and fuel pump 1 fuse removed the coil fuse does not blow. Also when I remove the blue 31P wiring connector from the PCM the coil fuse 11 does not blow and everything is connected and all fuses installed. With the 31P connector plugged in the coil fuse blows when I turn the key. Is there a diagram showing what wires in this plug feed? I hope the ECM isn't fried. Thanks again for all the help with this.

 

The information you seek is scattered throughout the Fuel & Emissions section of shop manual. You need the entire manual (see previous post).

May be the PCM, but certain something unusual is present.

good luck

 

Purchased the manual; it's helping somewhat. I plugged the 31P connector back up to ecm and pulled #4 plug from the left kick panel beside the fuses (page 22-24, fuse/relay boxes) which controls the left engine compartment harness and the ign coil fuse didn't blow. I then when to the 2 harness plugs on the harness before it enters the firewall ( plugged back up #4 connector) and coil fuse didn't blow. I then removed all plugs to sensors and coils and then plugged back up the 2 harness plugs, coil fuse didn't blow. Started one by one tested each plug and I'm back at the ignition coils. With everything plugged up except #1 and #2 coil the fuse doesn't blow. I removed harness cover and tape from them and there's no breaks but some wires have bare spots and fill brittle but not broke. The ground wires on them have a odd connection point so I'll rebuild those 2 harnesses and hope it runs. I still nothing at CEL TEST PORT, still reading a no data link. My replacement ECM will be here Wednesday. While testing all of this for the last week the rubber boot between the TB and air filter filled with gas. Is that natural from constant turning key?

 

Unclear how gasoline could get into intake air duct. Not normal for sure. Injectors are underneath the upper manifold. Check fuel delivery/return lines for security of connections and hoses.


good luck

 

Well, after checking all circuits twice purchased a used ECM off same year and model with 3.0 and hauled the car to dealer. They reflashed the replacement and it finally started. The constant turning of the key to the ON position and checking all circuits had filled the cylinders and crankcase with fuel; the engine was hydrolocked. I had the dealer pull the exhaust down tubes, change the oil and install new plugs due to fuel everywhere. It smoked for awhile on the drive home but finally cleared but throwing 8 codes relating to all cylinders misfiring. Gonna tackle that issue today and hopefully I'm done. The dealer said I may need a IAC valve; I'll advise on the outcome. Thanks for all of your help.

 

The Accord is back on the road. Had to replace the IAC valve and that cleared up all the codes and even helped the EGR system, not getting any DTC's relating to it which is why this problem even started. Total cost out of pocket was $958 which doesn't include the 2 weeks I worked on it.
Thanks for all of your input and the e manual suggestion.