2000 accord v6 drive noise??
2000 ex coupe v6 just had the transmission rebuilt @103000 as I was told torque converter was bad.
The car makes a faint knocking noise when driving. (it is a Automatic transmission)
when in park you can rev the engine and there is no noise but if you put it in drive and hold the brake and apply slight gas,you can hear a knock ,like a bad rod. It will not do this all the time,seems to be worse when cold.
Without spending a fortune from a repair shop, is this a common noise for these v6 accords ? Or could it be possible that the transmisson was not fixed completly? Is there a bearing that could be bad in the drive system?
This is the first Honda I have owned and so far I really like the car
Thanks for your posts reply
The car makes a faint knocking noise when driving. (it is a Automatic transmission)
when in park you can rev the engine and there is no noise but if you put it in drive and hold the brake and apply slight gas,you can hear a knock ,like a bad rod. It will not do this all the time,seems to be worse when cold.
Without spending a fortune from a repair shop, is this a common noise for these v6 accords ? Or could it be possible that the transmisson was not fixed completly? Is there a bearing that could be bad in the drive system?
This is the first Honda I have owned and so far I really like the car
Thanks for your posts reply
P1738= Problem with 2nd clutch pressure switch circuit
P1739= Problem with 3rd clutch pressure switch circuit
Who rebuilt the trans ? and is there a warranty on that rebuild?
Yes to your bearing question, it is very common for the tapered bearings in the differential to go bad.
Bad diff bearings usually make a growl noise when moving at idle speed and lightly stepping on and off the gas.
P1739= Problem with 3rd clutch pressure switch circuit
Who rebuilt the trans ? and is there a warranty on that rebuild?
Yes to your bearing question, it is very common for the tapered bearings in the differential to go bad.
Bad diff bearings usually make a growl noise when moving at idle speed and lightly stepping on and off the gas.
Thanks for the imput Hondadude!!
When I bought the car the dealer had AAmco repair the tranny.Its a long story, the dealer paid all but $300 ,but I did not want AAmoco to do the service.I think I had a gut feeling from the start and turns out to be correct!!
Yes, they warrant the work 12000 miles or 12 months.I need to take it in next week but feel like I need to tell them what to check to make sure it is fixed correctly. You would think that if they spent all that time and labor to tear the tranny appart, that they would replace all the worn parts?
Questions:
On a tranny rebuild,is the tapered bearing in the tranny? and do they normally replace the tapered bearing? Is it different than a carriage bearing?
Are the codes p1738 and p1739 related to how it shifts? as sometimes first to second is a hard sport shift, along with a longer time to shift (unlesss you drive very slow)
Again,Thanks for your replies as expierience from other is always appreciated!!
When I bought the car the dealer had AAmco repair the tranny.Its a long story, the dealer paid all but $300 ,but I did not want AAmoco to do the service.I think I had a gut feeling from the start and turns out to be correct!!
Yes, they warrant the work 12000 miles or 12 months.I need to take it in next week but feel like I need to tell them what to check to make sure it is fixed correctly. You would think that if they spent all that time and labor to tear the tranny appart, that they would replace all the worn parts?
Questions:
On a tranny rebuild,is the tapered bearing in the tranny? and do they normally replace the tapered bearing? Is it different than a carriage bearing?
Are the codes p1738 and p1739 related to how it shifts? as sometimes first to second is a hard sport shift, along with a longer time to shift (unlesss you drive very slow)
Again,Thanks for your replies as expierience from other is always appreciated!!
well as the bearing rollers start to disintegrate [pic below] there are little chips of metal that go out thru EVERYWHERE in the transmission.
So, considering that the shift valves are a close fitted steel piston in a bored hole, it only takes a tiny piece of contamination to keep a valve from moving freely, or an accumulator from building correct pressure.
So, considering that the shift valves are a close fitted steel piston in a bored hole, it only takes a tiny piece of contamination to keep a valve from moving freely, or an accumulator from building correct pressure.
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