Good. Just wanted to make sure you didn't go down the wrong path by how you setup the volt meter.

The blk/yel wire is powered from the ignition switch, goes through the 15 amp #1 fuse in driver's interior fuse box (check that fuse), then goes to each coil. Start working back to the fuse and ignition switch to figure out why you are missing power.

 

Already checked that fuse, getting plenty of power

 

Another question. Does the blk/yel wire not have 12V at the coil when the key is in the II position? Or is it missing 12V only when the key is in the start position?

 

I honestly don’t know for sure on that one, what would that mean?

 

That blk/yel wire should have power when the key is in the II and start position. I'm wondering if moving the key is causing the power loss, which would indicate the electrical portion of the ignition switch.

Using a test light that draws much more current than a volt meter would identify if the #1 fuse is getting enough current to maintain 12V in the II and start positions.

The wire harness from the switch to the main harness is also an item you can easily replace. I believe Honda sells them and definitely aftermarket places have them. I usually stick with Honda parts of the price difference isn't astronomical. You will still need to test before replacing parts.

 

I’m not missing power in either of them, missing power when the car turns over

 

So you lose power when you turn the key all the way to start the engine?

 

Yes exactly

 

Then you will need to replace the electrical portion of the ignition switch.

 

I already replaced that and it’s not that. Took out the ecu and sure enough it was shorted…. Had a feeling it was that. Thinking my problem is solved. Thanks.