There was no previous work done on the car. At 200k I replaced the timing belt and tensioner, but it has about 236k or so on it now.

history:
it went into limp mode once, my wife pulled over turned it off and waited a few minutes. Started it back and it ran great. I checked the oil level that evening and it was low, so I topped it off with 10w-30 because that’s all I had. The next week it went into limp mode and I took the car and ran the scanner on it at advance auto and got the codes. I checked the oil and it was a little low, so I topped it off with the 5w-20 (what is called for). It ran perfect after that, 2 days later it did it went into limp mode again and that’s when I posted this thread.

I replaced the whole solenoid valve, it came with a new sensor and switch. Bought off of eBay for 139.99, it’s one of the ones Sean posted a few comments up.

 

I think the next test would be to verify power with a test light to both the solenoid and the switch. Also verify the ground wire for the switch actually has a connection to ground.

A volt meter is an option to do the test, but a 12V test light draws current, so a test light provides more information on the integrity of the wiring.

The solenoid only has one wire going to it (green w/ yellow stripe). It looks like the switch has a power and ground, where the blue/blk wire is the power and please verify the other wire should be just black. Please verify, because the shop manual does not specify.

 

Well, I unhooked both the oil senor and solenoid switch and check for continuity. All was good there. I hooked them back up again and let the car sit and idle for about 10 minutes, until it got warm. The blinking check engine light stop and the engine ran perfect. Check engine light stays lite. Took it for a test drive and the car ran flawlessly, check engine light remained on but didn't flash, drove about 5 miles total.

Then out of the blue the TCS light and triangle with exclamation point came on. I went to jump on it and make sure it still had that sweet v6 power, it suddenly wont rev over 3500 RPM and the check engine light WASN'T flashing. I stopped and turned the car off, waited a minute and started it up, the TCS lights were off and the car had the v6 power again. A couple minutes later the TCS lights came back on and it would no longer rev passed 3500RPM! So now what?!?!? When the TCS and exclimation light comes on it won't rev passed 3500RPM, when its off (only after just restarting the car) it runs flawlessly.

 

Any help on this? Issue is: the car runs flawlessly, check engine light stays on(but I am attributing that to the computer not resetting itself yet after the Vtec solenoid issue), after about 5 miles the TCS light and the exclamation point triangle comes on. The car will suddenly will not run past 3500 RPM, it is not going into limp mode because it still has tons of power it just won't won't run up past 3500 RPM. Stop turn car off and then right back on and those lights are off and the car then runs flawlessly again.

 

I am needing some serious help with this issue PLEASE!!!! My wife is currently borrowing a vehicle to drive while I am figuring this out.

Issue with the vtec solenoid has been fixed. Took the car for a test drive and it ran great. On the test drive, out of the blue the TCS light and triangle came on, at which time the car wouldn't run past 3500 RPM. It was like it was hitting the rev limiter, not the limp home mode issue. The check engine light did not blink. I stopped, turn the car off, waited a moment, restarted it and the lights were off. I drove about 5 miles and the car ran great, then they cam back on and the same issue acquired. Looked up the TCS system reset and performed it, the car ran great and after about 5 miles the lights came back on and the same issue, it ran like crap. Did the reset again, and again the car ran flawlessly until those stupid lights came on. The reset doesn't seem to be working, even after 3 tries. The car runs great without the TCS light and triangle light on, after they come on it loses power and wont run past 3500 RPM. PLEASE HELP!!!!!!

I have researched it but can't find anything where the car loses power with those lights on.

 

Do you have the rims and size tires that came on the car. You might have a bad abs sensor. Take it out clean them up and try again.

 

Factory rims and factory tire size. The tires that are on it now, I had put on over a year ago. Literally, this is out of the blue, the only thing I have done to the car in the last month is change the vtec solenoid valve assembly and change the oil. This issue started on the test drive the night I got the vtec solenoid valve changed.

Where is the abs sensor located? In the front brake calipers?

 

Should be on the front. Take the tires off and look behind the rotor on the steering knuckle. You will see on wire going down to the knuckle where the sensor is screed in with 10mm. Take it out clean it up and clean in the whole. Are you sure you're tires have the correct air pressure

 

When you said you did a reset did you do a TCS pressure sensor neutral position memorization. I'm starting easy but hoping it's not the brake fluid level switch or abs control unit. There are many thing to look at but only you know what you did changing your sensor. Perhaps leaving something else unplugged or pinching a cable while reinstalling. There is also the brake light switch can be bad. There's videos on how to check

 

Yes, I did the memorization. Started by jumping pins 9 and 4 on the OBDII, then held foot on brake and turned key on. Waited for ABS light to turn off, removed foot from brake, and applied pressure again hen the ABS light came back on. It blinked twice, i then turned key off. then I turned key on and did the part where you push the TCS button.

I checked the brake fluid to verify it was full. I also went back and checked every plug on the motor where I was working when doing the vtec solenoid, to verify all were plugged in good. I haven't yet done the brake light switch. I will double check everything when I get home this evening, and check the brake light switch. I will check the ABS senors and clean them tomorrow.

Does it make sense that it runs like crap when those lights come on, but runs good when they are off after the restart?