94 Accord A/C after repairs still not working
Replaced the drier/regulator and the valve, BOTH.
The A/C ran AWESOME! Cold down to 40degrees or so.
Turned off the car and it sat til the next day.
Now it pumps out heat at 100+ degrees.
What else could be wrong with it????
Fans are running PERFECTLY. It all ACTS like it is working perfectly, but there is DEFINITELY something wrong somewhere.
Would it be easier to just take it to a repair guy and have them professionally diagnose the problem? Is there a code from the computer that will tell me what it is? Id rather not spend the money, but, it is what it is, I suppose.
The A/C ran AWESOME! Cold down to 40degrees or so.
Turned off the car and it sat til the next day.
Now it pumps out heat at 100+ degrees.
What else could be wrong with it????
Fans are running PERFECTLY. It all ACTS like it is working perfectly, but there is DEFINITELY something wrong somewhere.
Would it be easier to just take it to a repair guy and have them professionally diagnose the problem? Is there a code from the computer that will tell me what it is? Id rather not spend the money, but, it is what it is, I suppose.
70 on both
And yes, everything is working properly, as far as we can tell.
But, obviously, nothing is actually moving around.
So I'm not sure if there is something plugging the tubing or if something broke loose in the compressor and is once again blocking the valves or the drier, or what?
And yes, everything is working properly, as far as we can tell.
But, obviously, nothing is actually moving around.
So I'm not sure if there is something plugging the tubing or if something broke loose in the compressor and is once again blocking the valves or the drier, or what?
i got a little confused when you said nothing is moving around?but if it is blowing air mite wana check the refrigerant?
The sight glass on top of the receiver-driver,if it looks foamy its low if you see nothing its empty!
The sight glass on top of the receiver-driver,if it looks foamy its low if you see nothing its empty!
Hi probability you have a leak that was never fixed. Low refrigerant is most likely reason for loss of cooling so quickly.
A good auto ac shop will perform a leak inspection to indentify leak points for $50-$100. Leaks in evaporator expansion valve and feedback bulb are highly likely w/ an older system.
good luck
A good auto ac shop will perform a leak inspection to indentify leak points for $50-$100. Leaks in evaporator expansion valve and feedback bulb are highly likely w/ an older system.
good luck
Oh, and a leak test was performed. It was evacuated and pressure tested and evac'd two or three seperate times, plus he flushed it when he initially took it apart to replace the drier and expansion valve. And it all held fine... and R134 when evac'd and replaced was the same amount. ugh!
Well if if all is working fine and there is no leaks and the refrigerant is full? this is what i believe it could be,try and stay with me on this,
The blower fan forces the warmer air of the passenger compartment through the evaporator core transferring the heat from the air to the refrigerant.The liquid refrigerant boils off into low pressure vapor,taking the heat with it when it leaves the evap.
The blower fan forces the warmer air of the passenger compartment through the evaporator core transferring the heat from the air to the refrigerant.The liquid refrigerant boils off into low pressure vapor,taking the heat with it when it leaves the evap.
You should be getting cooling if the compressor is turning (clutch plate on face of compressor closes and turns w/ pulley drive). If this isn't turning, the clutch gap may be too large.
If clutch plate is turning w/ no cooling, check that heater control valve is closed.
Only other reason no cooling and compressor running would be defective expansion valve; either wide open or too closed.
Most of above can be done w/o gauges. If you have a sight glass, please inspect for bubbles or clear liquid flow.
good luck
If clutch plate is turning w/ no cooling, check that heater control valve is closed.
Only other reason no cooling and compressor running would be defective expansion valve; either wide open or too closed.
Most of above can be done w/o gauges. If you have a sight glass, please inspect for bubbles or clear liquid flow.
good luck
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Jacob305
General Tech Help
3
May 22, 2013 07:50 PM
powerslave
General Tech Help
12
Jul 31, 2012 03:09 PM
KaboomCult
General Tech Help
8
Jul 7, 2012 10:58 AM




