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95 4 cyl 2.2 starting issue

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Old 11-09-2011, 08:15 AM
jmaxim6's Avatar
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Default 95 4 cyl 2.2 starting issue

I have a 95 accord 4cyl 2.2. Monday it turned over but wouldn't start. I had it towed to a mechanic, it started right up for him in the afternoon. Yesterday it was fine, but this morning (wednesday) it wouldn't start again. It's not the fuel system (I can hear the fuel pump hum when I turn the key). It ran yesterday so I know it's not a fuse. I'm guessing the distributor or something in the ignition system??
 
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Old 11-09-2011, 10:26 AM
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Originally Posted by jmaxim6
I have a 95 accord 4cyl 2.2. Monday it turned over but wouldn't start. I had it towed to a mechanic, it started right up for him in the afternoon. Yesterday it was fine, but this morning (wednesday) it wouldn't start again. It's not the fuel system (I can hear the fuel pump hum when I turn the key). It ran yesterday so I know it's not a fuse. I'm guessing the distributor or something in the ignition system??
jmaxim6,

Have you inspected the battery terminals to ensure that they are properly connected? I've had cars sporadically start in the past and the culprit turned out to be a loose battery terminal. It wouldn't hurt to inspect the battery terminals to make sure that they are properly torqued down.

If the terminals are sufficiently secured then you could perform a spark test to determine whether or not the ignition system is delivering electricity through the coil wire to the distributor. Note that this test is used if the engine cranks but won't start:


1) Disconnect the end of the coil wire at the distributor.

2) Use a well-insulated tool (such as ignition wire pliers) to hold the exposed end of the wire about 1/2 in. (13 mm) from the metal of the engine block.

3) Have an assistant crank the engine by turning the ignition switch to the START position, but only for 1 or 2 seconds. Keep clear of moving parts under the hood, and keep clothing and hair well out of the way. If the cable end is the correct distance from solid metal, a distinct, blue-white spark should jump to the metal as the engine cranks.

4) The engine may be cranked in 1-2 second bursts. Longer cranking will cause the fuel injectors to deliver fuel into the cylinders, flooding the engine or at least fouling the spark plugs.

5) If no spark is present, turn the ignition switch OFF and proceed to check the resistance of the coil wire, the voltage supply to the coil (12 volts with ignition ON), the coil resistance, and if applicable, the air gap within the distributor.
 

Last edited by poorman212; 11-09-2011 at 08:29 PM.
  #3  
Old 11-09-2011, 02:55 PM
jmaxim6's Avatar
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Thank you. I'll let you know what I find out.
 
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Old 11-09-2011, 08:37 PM
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OP-first thing I would do is put a test light to the blk/yel wire on the dist, when this happens.
Ownmyown has suggested a somewhat on topic post (congrats for once), personally I'd go about the testing a totally different way.....a lot of steps posted that are not needed but again, my opinion.
 
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