Now that you got the air out, do the base idle adjustment. It's different from simply adjusting the idle-air screw, because the ECU will fight against whatever changes you make. Do the procedure as I wrote in the DIY section.

If the CAI made it idle at a higher RPM that probably means the IACV isn't at it's sweet spot for control. That's what happens when you adjust the idle screw without unplugging the IACV & jumpering the SCS.

 

I was just kidding buddy, I enjoy helping good people.

 

Wheres that write up JimBlake? Cant find it anywhere.

 

https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...e-speed-38734/

 

Digging this one up from the grave. Still having some issues but I havent been to worried about it lately. Car idles up and down consistently still when at operating temp and cold. Like 1000 to 2500 to 1000 to 2500. It also dies on me both while driving warmed up and cold. Mostly when im coming to a stop or I am stopped. It also happens when I just leave it sitting at idle.

When it does idle it idles great. Right at about 850-1000 depending.

My hunch is both my IAC and FIT valves are bad because it does this both cold and warm. No CEL's. No stored codes. Is my assumption right? Is there a way to test these? Especially since im a poor college student right now with no money to just throw parts at my car.

 

You can unbolt the IACV and use some TB cleaner on the screen. I have also read where the coolant hoses going to the IACV can get clogged up. You may want to remove that valve and clean out the coolant passage and the hoses.

The FITV can be opened and tightened down until it is snug. I the common DIY thread on top of the gen tech help forum, there is a link to FITV cleaning. There is also a test where you can cover the FITV port with your finger to see if the idle stabilizes.