'96 F22B2 Problems after Timing Belt Change
I am new to the forum and have done a thorough search and haven't come up with an answer so I decided to post.
The car is a 1996 Accord 4-door with an F22B2 engine and an automatic trans. The timing belt failed and bent the a couple valves on the number two cylinder. Both my father and I have a fair amount of mechanical knowledge so we decided to do the repair ourselves with the proper Chilton's as the guide.
After the initial tear down, we decided to have a friend of the family that is an ASE Certified Master Tech come over and replace the water pump and cam seal. That went fine. Then we got all the necessary parts and gasket sets and put it all back together. We followed all of the procedures outlined in the service manual for assembly. Engine was turned TDC when the belts were installed, the rod was inserted into the maintenance hole in the block to align the balancer shaft, and everything was triple checked to make sure the timing was correct.
Here is the problem: After we put it all back together and we tried to start the engine, it had a very difficult time trying to start. The car will start and run normally for about one second, and then die. Once we got it to start and stay running (by feathering the gas pedal), when you give the car gas, it will not exceed 3,000 rpm. It acts like there is an imaginary rev limiter at 3,000 rpm and will bounce off the 3,000 rpm mark very rapidly. Also, when you put the car in gear and try to drive it, it will not exceed 5 mph no matter how much gas you give it.
Any ideas or suggestions is greatly appreciated, this has now become a 2 week project that has us beating our heads against the wall!
The car is a 1996 Accord 4-door with an F22B2 engine and an automatic trans. The timing belt failed and bent the a couple valves on the number two cylinder. Both my father and I have a fair amount of mechanical knowledge so we decided to do the repair ourselves with the proper Chilton's as the guide.
After the initial tear down, we decided to have a friend of the family that is an ASE Certified Master Tech come over and replace the water pump and cam seal. That went fine. Then we got all the necessary parts and gasket sets and put it all back together. We followed all of the procedures outlined in the service manual for assembly. Engine was turned TDC when the belts were installed, the rod was inserted into the maintenance hole in the block to align the balancer shaft, and everything was triple checked to make sure the timing was correct.
Here is the problem: After we put it all back together and we tried to start the engine, it had a very difficult time trying to start. The car will start and run normally for about one second, and then die. Once we got it to start and stay running (by feathering the gas pedal), when you give the car gas, it will not exceed 3,000 rpm. It acts like there is an imaginary rev limiter at 3,000 rpm and will bounce off the 3,000 rpm mark very rapidly. Also, when you put the car in gear and try to drive it, it will not exceed 5 mph no matter how much gas you give it.
Any ideas or suggestions is greatly appreciated, this has now become a 2 week project that has us beating our heads against the wall!
I haven't checked the ignition timing yet. I did pull a P0336 code this evening though, which is a Crankshaft Position Sensor code. (CKP) Under the CKP section of the Chilton's manual it describes a troubleshooting sequence for the P0336 code, which involves disconnecting the electrical connector of the CKP, and checking the resistance between the terminals. The problem is that the Chilton manual lists this under the specs:
1996 Accord: 0.5 - 1.0 kohms
1982-2000 Accord: 1800 - 2300 ohms
Now since the car in question is a 1996, then technically this tolerance chart says two different allowable tolerances for my car since it falls into both categories. It doesn't get more specific and say something like... "if you have a '96 with an F22A motor, then your tolerance should be x, but if you have a '96 with an F22B motor, then your tolerance should be y". It's pretty vague. I did test the resistance and came up with 2.12 kohms, or 2120 ohms. So it would appear that if my car fell under the first category then I would need to replace the CKP sensor, but if I'm in the latter category then my sensor is fine and I need to figure out why the car is giving me a code for a bad sensor when in fact the sensor is good? Any ideas?
I'm confused and tired of this damn problem!
1996 Accord: 0.5 - 1.0 kohms
1982-2000 Accord: 1800 - 2300 ohms
Now since the car in question is a 1996, then technically this tolerance chart says two different allowable tolerances for my car since it falls into both categories. It doesn't get more specific and say something like... "if you have a '96 with an F22A motor, then your tolerance should be x, but if you have a '96 with an F22B motor, then your tolerance should be y". It's pretty vague. I did test the resistance and came up with 2.12 kohms, or 2120 ohms. So it would appear that if my car fell under the first category then I would need to replace the CKP sensor, but if I'm in the latter category then my sensor is fine and I need to figure out why the car is giving me a code for a bad sensor when in fact the sensor is good? Any ideas?
I'm confused and tired of this damn problem!
I think you found your answer with the Crankshaft Position Sensor. It may have gotten damaged or disconnected during the job. Others have had problems with them after doing a timing belt job. You may want to do a search.
I have a 97 and am going thru the same thing and have started another post. You might want to read my post and see what I've done and if you've found your problem, maybe you can give me a tip. I'm stuck as well.
Pondrun
Pondrun
I'll read your post.
It has been some time now since I started this thread, so the details are a little foggy. Replacing the Crankshaft Position Sensor fixed my problem. It was expensive from what I remember, a couple hundred bucks expensive.
It has been some time now since I started this thread, so the details are a little foggy. Replacing the Crankshaft Position Sensor fixed my problem. It was expensive from what I remember, a couple hundred bucks expensive.
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