'96 Honda Accord LX 2.2L 4-Cyl Won't Start
Hey everyone,
Just signed up with the forum because I really need some help from some people who know what they're doing. Took a trip out of town about a month ago (Hour long drive), car made it there just fine, however, when I went to leave the car wouldn't start. I did a bit of reading and tried to tackle a few suspected problems but the poor thing still won't budge.
So far I've had both the battery and the starter checked out at Advanced Auto Parts, both checked out O.K.; completely replaced the battery terminal connections and cleaned any corrosion off of the battery terminals; determined that it's not the EFI Main Relay (all 3 clicks occur, though sometimes not the third); and pulled out the spark plugs and cleaned them off (completely drenched in oil), reconnected one in one of the boots and tried to start but got no spark.
When I turn the key to II I hear a click from the engine (sounds like it's coming from the starter/distributor/transmission area) and the sound of a gas being compressed/spraying. On III the relay clicks (open and shut) but the engine stays silent.
I've read that other causes may include: timing belt, fuses, distributor cap/ignition coil, ignition itself (though I don't believe this to be the cause).
Any advice on what I should do next or possible insight into what the culprit may be would be greatly appreciated!
Just signed up with the forum because I really need some help from some people who know what they're doing. Took a trip out of town about a month ago (Hour long drive), car made it there just fine, however, when I went to leave the car wouldn't start. I did a bit of reading and tried to tackle a few suspected problems but the poor thing still won't budge.
So far I've had both the battery and the starter checked out at Advanced Auto Parts, both checked out O.K.; completely replaced the battery terminal connections and cleaned any corrosion off of the battery terminals; determined that it's not the EFI Main Relay (all 3 clicks occur, though sometimes not the third); and pulled out the spark plugs and cleaned them off (completely drenched in oil), reconnected one in one of the boots and tried to start but got no spark.
When I turn the key to II I hear a click from the engine (sounds like it's coming from the starter/distributor/transmission area) and the sound of a gas being compressed/spraying. On III the relay clicks (open and shut) but the engine stays silent.
I've read that other causes may include: timing belt, fuses, distributor cap/ignition coil, ignition itself (though I don't believe this to be the cause).
Any advice on what I should do next or possible insight into what the culprit may be would be greatly appreciated!
Check for 12V to the small wire (starter signal from keyswitch) when key is turned to III or start position. If 12V is missing, you have a keyswitch assy problem. If 12v present, the starter soleonoid or starter needs to be replaced.
good luck
good luck
I did an ignition switch test following the instructions from this video (
), and it checked out O.K.; TexasHonda, is that what you meant? And I'm confused, I took the starter/solenoid assembly down to AdvancedAuto and it ran, is it possible it would work differently in my car?
The wire I was suggesting to test is the blk/wht wire at the starter. Remove the small plug that fits over a threaded stud and check for 12v w/ keyswitch in III (start) position. It should have 12v.
Since you have no starter action, either there is 12V and starter solenoid is bad (it should click at least), or 12V is missing and you need new keyswitch assy or wiring repair.
PS that is a great video. I looked at it some time ago.
good luck
Since you have no starter action, either there is 12V and starter solenoid is bad (it should click at least), or 12V is missing and you need new keyswitch assy or wiring repair.
PS that is a great video. I looked at it some time ago.
good luck
The small blk/what wire going to the starter is not a high amp wire, it is the signal wire. Plus the volt setting shouldn't cause harm to a meter due to the amperage of the circuit. You have to worry about hurting the meter when testing on the amp setting.
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