97 accord SE cream in oil, coolant loss and overheat after long drive
#11
I've done that...
First, spin the engine so its 90-degrees away from TDC. Either 90-before or 90-after, I'm not sure which is easier to see the marks on the crank pulley. Now all 4 pistons are at mid-stroke.
You can loosen the tensioner with the lower cover in place, then slip the belt off of the cam sprocket. If the valve springs cause the camshaft to move, that's OK because none of the pistons are at the top. Then remove the head.
On the new head, spin the camshaft so it's at TDC. Install the head. Turn the crankshaft DIRECTLY to TDC, even if that means turning it backwards. Now slip the belt back on.
Do the normal belt-tension procedure & double-check the cam-timing marks to make sure you got it right.
First, spin the engine so its 90-degrees away from TDC. Either 90-before or 90-after, I'm not sure which is easier to see the marks on the crank pulley. Now all 4 pistons are at mid-stroke.
You can loosen the tensioner with the lower cover in place, then slip the belt off of the cam sprocket. If the valve springs cause the camshaft to move, that's OK because none of the pistons are at the top. Then remove the head.
On the new head, spin the camshaft so it's at TDC. Install the head. Turn the crankshaft DIRECTLY to TDC, even if that means turning it backwards. Now slip the belt back on.
Do the normal belt-tension procedure & double-check the cam-timing marks to make sure you got it right.
#12
Make a mark on the belt to the cam gear so that when you "go back on" you get the mark back in the correct place.
"Deserthonda" has a write up in the DIY section about replacing the cam seal without removing the lower cover. Can't remeber if it delt with the tensioner or not.
"Deserthonda" has a write up in the DIY section about replacing the cam seal without removing the lower cover. Can't remeber if it delt with the tensioner or not.
#13
Marking is a good idea, but be careful because when you slip the belt off the cam sprocket, it IS possible to move a tooth or 2 at the crankshaft sprocket. Depends on how you hang on to the belt while doing everything else.
In any case, marking the belt is good, but if those marks disagree with the timing marks on the sprockets, you need to go by the sprocket marks.
In any case, marking the belt is good, but if those marks disagree with the timing marks on the sprockets, you need to go by the sprocket marks.
#14
Well last weekend the snow storm hit so I'm starting the job today. Not even 30 minutes in and in found numerous blown seals and broken bolts and studs. I have 3 broken exhaust studs. As for the intake I can't tell yet. Before I continue I want to make sure I can locally buy parts before I get too far and am down a car. The exhaust studs seem to be common but does anyone know of the intake manifold is held on using studs or bolts? I can't find anything anywhere about replacement intake studs or bolts
#15
Studs in both cases. If you have a reman head you don't have to worry about them. If you're going to have the head resurfaced then have the machine shop replace the studs. Kind of a PITA using a hand drill.
#16
I have a reman. Head which I only just found out today has no studs in it. I see many places selling the exhaust manifold studs but still nothing for intake manifold studs. However, I see a lot of guides mentioning the removal of 4 bolts on top and 5 bolts on the bottom to remove the intake manifold.
#17
Look up CYLINDER HEAD on any of the Honda OEM parts websites. parts(dot)sonshonda(dot)com is probably the easiest to navigate. You'll find:
BOLT, STUD (8X38), Required: 008, P/N 90026-PT0-000
Bolts should work too although keeping the gasket in position without at least a couple of studs wouldn't be fun.
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