Now I remember who you are.

You wrote that really impressive and detailed F23 swap thread.

Because of that if the motor I have ever goes south (which I do not think it will any time soon) I was going to swap in a F23.

 

You should be all right, Crispin. One really valuable comment by someone in the swap thread: Buy a throttle body extender to move the TPS away from the IACV plumbing. That would eliminate the half-assed brazing/copper plumbing I did to get the IACV coolant line nipple far enough away from the TPS to hook up the line. I don't think TB extenders are expensive. In retrospect, would have just bought one and eliminated that headache. I'll probably have to one day if/when those sweated fittings start leaking.

 

Lol you guys lost me when you started talking about immobilizers and wire adapters. So I CAN run my P0H VTEC ECU? I just got my inspection done 2 months ago which was when I was running the P0J on the F23. I passed smog with flying colors! I haven't head time to test out my VTEC solenoid yet, but I'll check back when I do.

 

OP, you mentioned you are worried about passing smog. A lot is going to depend on what your state will allow. If you can pass smog with a chipped obd1 computer, which I doubt, then just go with that. See if someone can run a f23a basemap on a chipped computer for you. That would be the optimum way to go so that you don't have to worry about rigging up an immobilizer.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Edit: I see that you said you passed smog with flying colors. You could probably make it with using a chipped ecu while testing come smog time with the P0J. I gotta think the smog guy simply didn't realize you were using a different engine. It would be wise to not say or do anything that would make your smog tester look at the block.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
If not, then you should have someone do some datalogging to find out what's going on with your car. I suspect it's running lean(just a guess) and if so that it not good on your engine. Yes, you can use a P0H ecu, as you have already, however I'm telling you that it's not going to run correctly. I do not know if it's causing your issues right now, but if you could run any ecu with any car then why would they even make different ecu's ? I highly doubt that your car is having vtec problems without it throwing any check engine codes.

Here is some information I dug up at hondata

This is about using obd1 ecu with your car.

Application Selection Wizard - 96 Accord

this is some general information about immobilizers.

K-Series ECU removal

 

I think I may know what your problem is. The ecu you are using is designed for low impedance injectors and if you're using the h23a vtec injectors those are peak and hold high impedance injectors. Swap your old injectors in there and see if that works. Supposedly using the wrong injectors can mess up your ecu so let's hope that didn't happen.

Also, your P0J injectors appear to be different than the P0H injectors, in terms of ecu usage since you said you passed smog with the P0J ecu but you are currently are using the P0H ecu, but hopefully it's not enough to make a difference.

http://www.hondapartscheap.com/parts...ntake-manifold

http://www.hondapartscheap.com/parts...ntake-manifold

 

Interesting. I wonder what causes the P0H ECU to throw a code? The 1996 service manual supplement shows only one VTEC related code, DTC 21, "A problem with the VTEC Solenoid Valve circuit." Diagnostics start with measuring resistance of the valve and associated wiring, ending with checking oil pressure.

Does the ECU sense current or a voltage drop on the line? If so then an unplugged or miswired solenoid would trigger a DTC 21. But would low oil pressure trigger a 21 considering there's no oil pressure switch and the ECU's not looking for one? That is, does the VTEC solenoid operate strictly electrically? Or does it require adequate oil pressure to engage and, if it doesn't engage when the ECU says to, then will it trigger a DTC 21?

 

When was the last time you heard of a vtec solenoid failing ?

Normally, if there's a problem it's with the wiring or not enough oil pressure. ie dent in oil pan.

 

Roader is running a P0H ecu with the F23 injectors right? I don't have access to any of the old parts from my F22. The shop that did the swap for me kept the engine. And since I'm not throwing any CELs, that should mean that my vtec solenoid is working right?

 

No, I'm using F22B2 injectors and fuel rail from the old engine. The F23 rail doesn't have a banjo fitting for the Gen 5 fuel line so the F22 fuel rail has to be used, which necessitates using the F22 injectors; F23 injectors won't fit. Too tall as I remember.

Re: No CEL = working solenoid. I'm not so sure about that. I question how the ECU knows when the solenoid isn't working, and searching the web hasn't yielded a clue. Since there's just a single VTEC line on '96 - '97s, then I assume that the ECU is measuring current flow through that line using an op-amp circuit. When the solenoid is engaged it uses a known amount of current. No current or low current flow trips the CEL. Just speculation on my part.

If so, and if the solenoid were stuck for some reason, it may still use the same amount of current without moving the plunger i.e., VTEC wouldn't engage.

This thread is four pages and you still don't know if the solenoid clicks. Get some speaker wire, attach one end to the battery positive post touch the other end to the disconnected solenoid connector. Listen for a click. Wear a glove (or put a fuse in the wire) so you don't burn yourself if the solenoid is shorted.

 

I tested out the solenoid and sure enough it clicked. I did it three times just to be sure, and it clicked every time.