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97 Accord won't start pump not running

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  #31  
Old 05-03-2016, 09:44 PM
PAhonda's Avatar
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I'm glad you got it working.

There is one more item I'd like you to check. The electrical connector for the injector resistor block has 5 wires going to it on the harness side. Four of the wire colors are the same color going to 12V side of each injector. I can't remember the color of the 5th wire.

There is another connector nearby that is identical, and you can easily switch them, if you unplugged stuff over there. The wire colors at the injector block would be much different if you somehow switched them.

The power to the injectors is supplied through pin 6 of the main fuel relay. You could backprobe pin 6 (yellow wire with black stripe) on the main fuel relay connector and verify you have 12V. I'm always curious of why there is an electrical problem and like to trace the problem back to the source. I'd probably run the new 12V power wire from the yel/blk wire at the relay to mimic the original wiring.
 
  #32  
Old 05-04-2016, 12:01 AM
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Originally Posted by PAhonda
I'm glad you got it working.

There is one more item I'd like you to check. The electrical connector for the injector resistor block has 5 wires going to it on the harness side. Four of the wire colors are the same color going to 12V side of each injector. I can't remember the color of the 5th wire.

There is another connector nearby that is identical, and you can easily switch them, if you unplugged stuff over there. The wire colors at the injector block would be much different if you somehow switched them.

The power to the injectors is supplied through pin 6 of the main fuel relay. You could backprobe pin 6 (yellow wire with black stripe) on the main fuel relay connector and verify you have 12V. I'm always curious of why there is an electrical problem and like to trace the problem back to the source. I'd probably run the new 12V power wire from the yel/blk wire at the relay to mimic the original wiring.
I had checked the other connector you mentioned, but only to ohm meter it out to the resistor pack. It got replugged in. The other small one in that corner never got unplugged, so it should be fine (I couldn't get my hand down in there anyway). I did double check the resistance of the resistor pack, and had 6.6 ohms on it today, but no power (only .25V), so I knew I had found the problem. Especially after I added 12 volts and it fired up.

I did run a new wire off #6 of the main relay (yel/blk), as it powers up the fuel pump, and the ECU too (according to the wiring diagram in the FSM and in the back of the Haynes manual). I think there's a connector block up under the dash that I could have spliced into as well, but it gets pretty dark up under the dash, not to mention very uncomfortable laying over the sill of the door opening and I'm not getting any younger.

In my case, I think there's an open wire in that circuit, but I don't know where exactly. I probably could have wiggled the loom some more, and it might have started working on it's own, but then it would have failed again (probably while it's raining or snowing ), so I figured I'd abandon it and run a new one, that way it was fixed.

But yes, Thank You for the help, and this forum has helped me quite a bit. I've learned more about the system than I planned, but I also know how it works now.
 
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