99 Accord DX 2.3L - Head Gasket Endeavor
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Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 53
Not from the distributor position.
In 1998/1999 the spark timing is based on signals from a sensor down at the crankshaft. You can check it with a timing light, but you can't do anything about it.
Post #44, top photo, there's wires visible coming from sensors that are obstructed by the big crankshaft sprocket. Any adjustment of timing would come from the mounting bolts of those sensors - which aren't supposed to have any real slop for movement in the mounting-bolt-holes.
The timing sensor in the distributor is only there to differentiate between TDC of the compression stroke vs. TDC exhaust stroke. If you were to enlarge the distributor mounting holes into slots (like an older distributor), you could spin the distributor and the spark timing would not change.
In 1998/1999 the spark timing is based on signals from a sensor down at the crankshaft. You can check it with a timing light, but you can't do anything about it.
Post #44, top photo, there's wires visible coming from sensors that are obstructed by the big crankshaft sprocket. Any adjustment of timing would come from the mounting bolts of those sensors - which aren't supposed to have any real slop for movement in the mounting-bolt-holes.
The timing sensor in the distributor is only there to differentiate between TDC of the compression stroke vs. TDC exhaust stroke. If you were to enlarge the distributor mounting holes into slots (like an older distributor), you could spin the distributor and the spark timing would not change.
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Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 53
Post #44, top photo, there's wires visible coming from sensors that are obstructed by the big crankshaft sprocket. Any adjustment of timing would come from the mounting bolts of those sensors - which aren't supposed to have any real slop for movement in the mounting-bolt-holes.
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Joined: May 2006
Posts: 18,398
From: Wisconsin
Those sensors at the crankshaft pulley (CKP & TDC sensors) would throw CEL & set error codes if the wires were cut, or the sensors were broken or something like that.
I wasn't really reading through all 6 pages of this thread, Texas, PA & Roader look like they're giving you good advice. I was just commenting about the timing marks and then about your doubts on the correct position of the distributor.
I wasn't really reading through all 6 pages of this thread, Texas, PA & Roader look like they're giving you good advice. I was just commenting about the timing marks and then about your doubts on the correct position of the distributor.
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Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 53
Examine PCV system from valve cover to throttle body for leaks, cracks, disconnected.
Examine brake booster line from throttle body to brake booster for leaks, cracks, disconnected.
Check EVAP system for vacuum leaks tracing from intake manifold.
Listen for hissing sound of vacuum leak.
Try disconnecting IACV electrical connector to see if idle stablizes. Idle may still be high, but this would confirm air leaking into system somewhere.
Other possibilities are intake manifold leak, valve cover leak.
Shop manual says for idle fluction to perform idle speed adjustment, inspect/adjust throttle cable, inspect/test throttle body. You need the shop manual to address these.
good luck
Examine brake booster line from throttle body to brake booster for leaks, cracks, disconnected.
Check EVAP system for vacuum leaks tracing from intake manifold.
Listen for hissing sound of vacuum leak.
Try disconnecting IACV electrical connector to see if idle stablizes. Idle may still be high, but this would confirm air leaking into system somewhere.
Other possibilities are intake manifold leak, valve cover leak.
Shop manual says for idle fluction to perform idle speed adjustment, inspect/adjust throttle cable, inspect/test throttle body. You need the shop manual to address these.
good luck
Super Moderator : And A Texan
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 9,652
From: Katy, TX
Since engine died when IACV port was plugged, a stuck open IACV is suggested. When you close the port, engine was starved for air and died. Suggest removing IACV and carefully cleaning/inspecting to be sure the solenoid valve is functioning. It could have failed in open position.
good luck
good luck
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Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 53
Since engine died when IACV port was plugged, a stuck open IACV is suggested. When you close the port, engine was starved for air and died. Suggest removing IACV and carefully cleaning/inspecting to be sure the solenoid valve is functioning. It could have failed in open position.
good luck
good luck
Odd that it would work before I took the head off and then not work after. Unless the oil in the water gunked up the water passages. Hmm....likely?
Thanks again.
Super Moderator : And A Texan
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 9,652
From: Katy, TX
Your description indicates the IACV is either failed open or stuck open (gunk). The IACV can be removed and thoroughly cleaned and function checked (apply 12V/ground to connector). Valve will click open and close on removal of power (spring loaded). If valve stays open after cleaning, a replacement IACV will be necessary.
good luck
good luck
Help identifying this
But I haven't been able to find it labelled.
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Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 53
Found it, throttle position sensor (TPS). Ugh....this is the one that I unplugged and the surging stopped, not the IACV.
