Car had all the symptoms of a bad main relay. However, now the car will not start even when it cools down. It turns over and wants to go but just wont. The main relay's been replaced, so that is not the problem.

The check engine light comes on when I turn on the car and goes off after two seconds like it should, but then it comes right back on to stay on.

This has been a problem for years: the car wouldn't start in the heat, so I finally replace the main relay and now the car won't start at all. I have voltage at various pins on the plug when I take the main relay out, but only when I use the car ground not the pin 2 ground on the plug. I have no idea where to look if that is a bad ground.

Plz halp me. The car has new unexplained dents about the size of my screwdriver handle o.0

 

You could start with finding out if it is a no spark or fuel problem assuming the engine cranks fast enough to start, and then go from there.

 

you need to read the code and post it here ..

did you get the ignition switch recall ???

 

I read about the ign. switch recall. The described symptoms of a bad ign. switch are the car shutting off mid flight which has never happened, so I overlooked that. I am struggling to get the code but don't have the hardware atm and cannot paper clip a OBD-II it seems.

 

go to autozone, they will read the code free of charge

 

I'm with "KRIS". If it won't start it's hard to take it somewhere.... Need to try to find what is missing..Spark,ect. I think there is a wire diag. you can download from the FAQ to figure out where the ground from the pin is suppose to be. If #2 is the ground for the relay it sounds like you might be on to something.

 

I had a similar issue. Drove car around, ran fine. Left it in a lot for 15 minutes, came back, started, then died. Never would start after that. Cranked over just find but not a single sputter or pop. Had it towed to my home. First tried to determine whether it was fuel or ignition. Sprayed starter fluid into the intake, no go. Pulled the spark plug wire and put a screwdriver in it, laid it next to the valve cover....bingo, no spark. Now I knew the ignition was the issue. So I pull the distributor cap and see lots of corrosion around the points. Connected a wire from the "ignition module post" to near the engine valve cover, bang...got a nice white spark. So I know the coil and the ICM are good. So I replaced the rotor and distributor cap for a total of about 35 bucks and 20 minutes of my time. Fired right up and now runs like a top. Hope this helps others with similar issues.

 

Is the fuel pump kicking on? turn the key but dont turn it over, listen to see if it kicks on then goes silent after a 2 second buzz, and what ignition switch recall? someone have a link? because i have a 99 and my car turns off during driving a lot..

 

There was a recall to replace the ignition switch. You should be able to phone ANY Honda dealer, give them your VIN, and they'll tell you whether your car is covered, and if so, whether it's already been done. But the recall just installs another switch, I don't think it's been re-designed or improved or anything. So the "new" one can fail too.

Can you make it stall by wiggling the key? (Don't be stupid in traffic when testing this)

Otherwise, this original thread is old enough that it's probably been fixed somehow.